Users who are viewing this thread
Count Krunk
Play FIFA 21 (or any game on PC)? PM me!
- Location
- ATL, GA
Have you tried googling t5 lights sometimes lighting up?
you could be right, if the contact is loose im not super sure how to fix that.
you could be right, if the contact is loose im not super sure how to fix that.
bluerider098
Euphellia Crazy
The ballast is likely still bad. Wiggling the bulb will sometimes make it light with a bad ballast, but it will be hit it miss at best.I tried unplugging and no success. I picked up two new bulbs still initially no success. But when I toggle the second bulb both bulbs now come on. Stayed on for 15 minutes and then back out. I toggled again and fired right back up. We'll see how long this lasts as the fiddling can't be a long term solution. But I'm happy to see the lights on.
I'm not an electrical / lighting expert, but does that rule out a bad ballast? It's the second light socket that is clearly involved. Fiddling with that bulb fires the bulbs and when I slightly put pressure to rotate the bulbs are firing, I'm assuming it's because I'm improving the contact.
No word back yet from Giesemann or coralvue. I tried calling Germany, but didn't understand the message beyond "guten tag," hopefully language doesn't end up being too much of a barrier.
Appreciate the thoughts.
You can easily rule out bad bills but just switching them with the bulbs that are working in the other locations.
bluerider098
Euphellia Crazy
The ballast rarely completely dies, it just won't be consistent with lighting. It's kinda funny because I've been thru all of this before with my shop lights. Wiggling the bulbs would make it light sometimes.
After I changed the ballast it lights every time. Not much to florescents, just a ballast to generate the high voltage and wires. So if you eliminate bad bulbs by checking them in locations that are working then your pretty much left with a bad connection or the ballast. You could check the sockets with a multimeter if you suspect a bad connection.
SDReef
Well-known member
LOL, I could get by with Spanish. I spent two months living in Germany and never figured out if the sandwich meat I was buying was ham or turkey, hahaha. Bitte ein bier seemed to be adequate most of the time. I may have to pull out the google translate.
I suspect that's it. I came home for lunch today to receive a coral shipment and had some time to fiddle around with the lights. I just got home from work and looks like they stayed on after my final adjustment. I'm hoping it's resolved, but not holding my breath.
I found someone who had to replace the socket in one of these a few years back. Didn't remember all the details but said it wasn't difficult to swap it out, but noted the communication barrier with Germany was a bit painful. I'm hoping they'll get back to me with some guidance.
I want you to know that I really want you to be wrong on this, lol. Deep down, I know there's a decent chance you're right.
bluerider098
Euphellia Crazy
I'll keep my fingers crossed that you find something else. 
SDReef
Well-known member
Giesemann responded that they suspect either the bulbs or the sockets , "lampholders". They sell replacements for this part and I've placed in order to have them on hand since the cost is $8.
Coralvue replied I may have a faulty ballast.
Regardless, the fixture has continued to work and I'm not having any issues currently. Everything is resolved.
Since changing the bulbs, I noticed the pH has been climbing. I disconnected the CO2 reactor a couple days ago as the pH was approaching 8.5. I expected the output from the T5 bulbs would stay up for about 18 months, I may replace my bulbs after a year moving forward. The other possibility is I was overdue to clean some of the salt that had splashed up onto the fixtures plastic guard and cleaning this improved light penetration.
Couple quick phone pictures from this evening.
Coralvue replied I may have a faulty ballast.
Regardless, the fixture has continued to work and I'm not having any issues currently. Everything is resolved.
Since changing the bulbs, I noticed the pH has been climbing. I disconnected the CO2 reactor a couple days ago as the pH was approaching 8.5. I expected the output from the T5 bulbs would stay up for about 18 months, I may replace my bulbs after a year moving forward. The other possibility is I was overdue to clean some of the salt that had splashed up onto the fixtures plastic guard and cleaning this improved light penetration.
Couple quick phone pictures from this evening.
Wrangy
Butterfly Boi
- Location
- The Land Down Under
Glad to hear the light mystery appears to have fixed itself haha
The tank is looking aammaaazziiinngggg
The tank is looking aammaaazziiinngggg
Wrangy
Butterfly Boi
- Location
- The Land Down Under
I hate you so much 
what a 
ing stunner!!! I'm biding my time here to, get one as they're still like $1200
what a ing stunner!!! I'm biding my time here to, get one as they're still like $1200 
mattzang
Well-known member
- Location
- redlands, CA
SDReef
Well-known member
I hate you so much
I didn't realize the price would be so different. Why is that? I was browsing an australian fish vendor and did find the Choati and was surprised how dramatically less expensive they were. While that makes sense, I'm still surprised by the price difference for the angel.
probably need to get him a regal looking friend to hang out with
It's crossed my mind, but I'm considering myself fortunate for having one well behaved angel. Regal, multibar, and a G. semifasciatus pair have all been angels I've considered.
Wrangy
Butterfly Boi
- Location
- The Land Down Under
Because captive bred angels have to come a long way to us and because they're still a bit if a sneaky import as technically you're not allowed to import captive bred fish into Aus. Which is the dumbest rule ever, so that's why the price is crazy here!
Genicanthus don't count! There you go, I've solved the problem so you can get a Regal now!
SDReef
Well-known member
Tank is doing well overall. I noticed some of the polyp extension on a few of the millies was a little less. I bumped up the flow and seems to have resolved the reduced extension. After recalibrating the pH probe, pH is consistently remaining 8.1-8.4. The calibration had drifted and was responsible for giving me elevated pH reading approaching 8.5.
I'm editing this area and a few other spots in the tank. I have several new corals on the rack that I am excited to get placed throughout the tank. Peng's HOTO, Wet Thumb's mother of pearl, BC angelica, BC cricket spine, Copps 24K millie are some that I need to get placed. Real estate is limited and some pieces in the system may need to get removed. I may move the hammer coral off the rock work to get more space for sps.
This is the BC tinkro belle after stabilizing an area of STN
I had cut the gold rainbow hammer in half simply because it was getting too large and one of the polyps ended up landing on the tinkro belle colony. Initially it was one spot, but then there was STN radiating out from the spot. I watched it initially but it was progressing and I decided to frag most of the pieces of the coral that were branching out leaving primarily the base. I tried to get ahead of it by encrusting the necrotic area with a bit of a margin with F-aptasia and putty. This turned out to be effective and the necrosis didn't spread further and this area is now getting encrusted back over with new tissue. I could replace the fragged branches to speed up the process but I've decided I want this real estate for other pieces.
I have to determine the best way to remove this encrusted area. Any suggestions? I'm considering just removing as much of the encrusted area with bone cutters and then using F-aptasia to make sure I get the remnants to prevent any unwanted chemical warfare.
Full Tank Shot from this evening
I'm editing this area and a few other spots in the tank. I have several new corals on the rack that I am excited to get placed throughout the tank. Peng's HOTO, Wet Thumb's mother of pearl, BC angelica, BC cricket spine, Copps 24K millie are some that I need to get placed. Real estate is limited and some pieces in the system may need to get removed. I may move the hammer coral off the rock work to get more space for sps.
This is the BC tinkro belle after stabilizing an area of STN
I had cut the gold rainbow hammer in half simply because it was getting too large and one of the polyps ended up landing on the tinkro belle colony. Initially it was one spot, but then there was STN radiating out from the spot. I watched it initially but it was progressing and I decided to frag most of the pieces of the coral that were branching out leaving primarily the base. I tried to get ahead of it by encrusting the necrotic area with a bit of a margin with F-aptasia and putty. This turned out to be effective and the necrosis didn't spread further and this area is now getting encrusted back over with new tissue. I could replace the fragged branches to speed up the process but I've decided I want this real estate for other pieces.
I have to determine the best way to remove this encrusted area. Any suggestions? I'm considering just removing as much of the encrusted area with bone cutters and then using F-aptasia to make sure I get the remnants to prevent any unwanted chemical warfare.
Full Tank Shot from this evening
mattzang
Well-known member
- Location
- redlands, CA
hoto?
Wrangy
Butterfly Boi
- Location
- The Land Down Under
SDReef
Well-known member
I placed an order for alkalinity from BRS. Today I opened the box and was surprised to find a couple boxes of energy drinks. I've emailed them, and will have to wait til the week to get this resolved. I've placed a lot of orders from BRS and never had anything like this happen. Anything like this ever happen to anyone else?
Count Krunk
Play FIFA 21 (or any game on PC)? PM me!
- Location
- ATL, GA
What? That’s wild
GBRsouth
Well-known member
- Location
- N.S.W. Australia
mattzang
Well-known member
- Location
- redlands, CA
Now we know the secret to faster growth