Anthias with red, ragged tails

CindyKz

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What magnification? You can easily see Uronema at 40x. But in order to actually see bacteria swimming, you'll need a lens with at least a 400x magnification. A 1000x magnification can show bacteria in stunning detail.

I looked at 40x and 100x. My microscope goes up to 1000x but I didn't go that high - I was mostly looking for uronema. I'm really still learning with it. If the last doesn't make it - although she looks pretty good right now - I'll look under the higher magnification also.
 

CindyKz

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I looked at 40x and 100x. My microscope goes up to 1000x but I didn't go that high - I was mostly looking for uronema. I'm really still learning with it. If the last doesn't make it - although she looks pretty good right now - I'll look under the higher magnification also.
AND do a FW dip to look for flukes, which I should have done last night but I didn't think of it.
 

CindyKz

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The remaining anthias still looks good although she is hiding near the bottom. She comes out to eat and I can't see any redness. Ammonia is getting to be a pain - I hate hospital tanks! I used a bunch of media from my sump but I imagine the abx wiped out the bacteria.

Divergent thought, whats are the forum's thoughts regarding keeping a single anthias? My gut says no because they are a shoaling fish that need more of their kind. But they are awfully expensive to keep losing. I checked into getting a group from one of the vendors on this site who quarantine, but that's a chunk of change as well.
Doable, but painful.
 

mikeintoronto

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I’m no expert but this thing you are experiencing is the reason I moved away from leaving fishes in the same water to a hybrid copper+TTM treatment protocol. My anthias broke out with fin and body rot and it wiped out most of them. I was able to recover the survivors by moving them to an established tank. Then I treated them a few weeks later with the new protocol.
I actually believe for inexperienced people, the biggest failure with copper treatment is unclean water.
 

mikeintoronto

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The remaining anthias still looks good although she is hiding near the bottom. She comes out to eat and I can't see any redness. Ammonia is getting to be a pain - I hate hospital tanks! I used a bunch of media from my sump but I imagine the abx wiped out the bacteria.

Divergent thought, whats are the forum's thoughts regarding keeping a single anthias? My gut says no because they are a shoaling fish that need more of their kind. But they are awfully expensive to keep losing. I checked into getting a group from one of the vendors on this site who quarantine, but that's a chunk of change as well.
Doable, but painful.
Just based on what I’ve observed, certain species will do better than others. A lyretail will probably be okay. A shy species (bartletts?) might not. Other shoaling fishes might bring a shy anthias out but the best ones are also most prone to uronema (I.e. chromis).
If your single anthias is a female, it will probably stay that way. I know people will have a single male lyretail in a tank.
 

CindyKz

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Just based on what I’ve observed, certain species will do better than others. A lyretail will probably be okay. A shy species (bartletts?) might not. Other shoaling fishes might bring a shy anthias out but the best ones are also most prone to uronema (I.e. chromis).
If your single anthias is a female, it will probably stay that way. I know people will have a single male lyretail in a tank.
Thanks! She's an ignitus. I have 3 chromis in the tank, I have also considering adding more with the ignitus. Their body shapes and coloration are so different though, it makes me think it wouldn't work. I have no experience in this though.
 

CindyKz

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I’m no expert but this thing you are experiencing is the reason I moved away from leaving fishes in the same water to a hybrid copper+TTM treatment protocol. My anthias broke out with fin and body rot and it wiped out most of them. I was able to recover the survivors by moving them to an established tank. Then I treated them a few weeks later with the new protocol.
I actually believe for inexperienced people, the biggest failure with copper treatment is unclean water.

This anthias was actually moved from an established, cycled QT to a hospital tank for the antibiotics. I very much prefer my cycled tank! I don't use copper prophylactically. It's an interesting idea though, thank you for the input.
 

CindyKz

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Speaking of my established, cycled QT tank, how long do I have to leave it fallow for this bacterial or viral infection? I'm not concerned for ick or velvet, or even really uronema at this point.
 

Humblefish

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Speaking of my established, cycled QT tank, how long do I have to leave it fallow for this bacterial or viral infection? I'm not concerned for ick or velvet, or even really uronema at this point.
That's a tricky question. Usually a month fallow will clear bacterial diseases; I'm not sure about fish viruses though. :unsure:

If I'm really worried about it, I just sterilize + reseed the tank:
 

CindyKz

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That's a tricky question. Usually a month fallow will clear bacterial diseases; I'm not sure about fish viruses though. :unsure:

If I'm really worried about it, I just sterilize + reseed the tank:

Thanks! I've been thinking about it, and I think I'm just going to have to be satisfied with leaving it fallow for a while. There are snails and crabs in there.
 

CindyKz

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Just an update, the last remaining anthias still looks good. She has finished up the kanaplex and furan. I'm going to continue the metroplex for the full 3 weeks.

I've been considering whether or not to get more, and I think I"m going to plan to. I just hate to keep one lone anthias - she still hides a lot, I think because she's the only fish in her tiny 10 gallon home :(.

I have a 55 gallon tank that I bought to use as quarantine for larger species. I think what I'll do is set that back up and make some dividers so I can house 4-5 anthias without worrying about them beating each other up. Since anthias are prone to uronema I'm considering a formalin dip on arrival, although I've never used it.
 

intense37716

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QT clock starts over again when placed in same water 😉 Don’t wanna appear to be the Anthias police but don’t they require a lot of swimming area? I was looking into getting one and I recall reading that they require a larger tank than I was going to place them in
 

Humblefish

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Since anthias are prone to uronema I'm considering a formalin dip on arrival, although I've never used it.
It's not as scary as it sounds. Just use a face mask and rubber gloves.

When doing a formalin bath always use a formulation of 37% UPC lab grade Formaldehyde and 14-15% Methanol. This is what I use for convenience:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CY56QBQ/?tag=humblefish-20

Dosage is 0.6 ml per gallon, or 12 drops per gallon. Aerate vigorously and treat at this concentration for approximately 45 minutes. You can actually treat for a maximum of 60 minutes if the fish seems to be handling the bath fine, but cut it short (30 minutes) if breathing becomes too heavy.

More info: https://humble.fish/formalin/
 

CindyKz

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QT clock starts over again when placed in same water 😉 Don’t wanna appear to be the Anthias police but don’t they require a lot of swimming area? I was looking into getting one and I recall reading that they require a larger tank than I was going to place them in

Yes they need space. The 10 gal is a hospital tank. She will go into my 180 gal DT after QT. By the time I get more this one will be in the DT already. Hopefully I can get a large enough group through QT that adding them after she is already established won't be too horrible.

Which ones were you considering?
 

intense37716

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lyretail anthias, didn’t realize a 10g was involved, read you were going to set up dividers and was only curious if there were others that would more appropriate for a smaller tank as I was looking for some different personalities and colors for a 65g 36x21 and not lecturing.
 

CindyKz

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lyretail anthias, didn’t realize a 10g was involved, read you were going to set up dividers and was only curious if there were others that would more appropriate for a smaller tank as I was looking for some different personalities and colors for a 65g 36x21 and not lecturing.
Oh no worries! No the dividers would just be for while they are in quarantine.

Lyretails are really pretty too. There is something I have always loved about the ignatus though. 💕
 

CindyKz

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Some weirdness.

I woke up this morning and the last remaining anthias was sitting on the bottom and wouldn't eat. Resp rate is slightly elevated but she is "guppy breathing" ie making mouth movements with her breath. (IDK if that's significant in fish...) She had finished up the last doses of Furan2 and Kanaplex but I kept the metroplex going IAW the directions which state 3 weeks, also I wanted to cover uronema.

I did a 50% water change preparing to restart the kanaplex and Furan. In the meantime I wanted a close up photo of her tail...when I shot it I found these white spots. They are only visible to me with the camera's magnification, I can't see them in person. The photos were taken with a macro lens. They are as clear as I could get them.

Now I feel like I should start copper? Or prazi? I'm feeling at a loss.
 

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Humblefish

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It could just be the beginning of Lympho nodules:
 
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