Antibiotics

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Antibiotic treatment (updated 1-12-23)

What It Treats:
Bacterial infections, which are oftentimes “secondary” to preexisting parasitic (and worm) infestations.

How To Treat: Follow the directions for whatever product you are using. Always use a broad-spectrum antibiotic i.e. one that treats both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. It is preferable to use pharmaceutical-grade medications when treating fish. (Sources for Pharma grade: Here, here and here.) Keep in mind that with pharmaceutical-grade medications a digital scale should be used to weigh the dosage: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TDNAM/?tag=humblefish-20

The following are antibiotics I recommend (in order of preference):
  1. Ciprofloxacin (Best administered via 1-2 hour bath treatment. Dosage is high: 250mg per gal. Repeat every 24 hours for 7 days. Methylene Blue can be added to increase efficacy.)

  2. Enrofloxacin (Most advanced antibiotic approved for use in tropical fish. Dosage range is 2.5 - 5 mg/L daily for 7 days; can be used in a QT or as a 5 hour bath treatment. The tricky thing about Enrofloxacin is 2.5 - 5 mg/L is a safe range for QT usage, but nitrifying bacteria will also take a hit. So, the primary reason to administer the medication in a 5 hr bath is to spare your biofilter.)

  3. Nitrofuracin Green Powder* (Best used in a QT with no working biofilter, as Methylene Blue contained therein can kill nitrifying bacteria.) The 30 minute bath dosage for NFG is 100mg per gallon.

  4. Sulfa TMP* (Trimethoprim and Sulfathiazole Sodium). 1/4 teaspoon per 10 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment.

  5. Kanamycin + Nitrofurazone + Metronidazole* – Can be used separately, but most effective when all 3 are combined together. Kanamycin + Nitrofurazone should be dosed at the same time for maximum effectiveness. Can be used in a QT with a working biofilter. Aquarium grade alternatives: Seachem Kanaplex + Seachem Metroplex

  6. Other antibiotics: Neomycin (Seachem Neoplex), Sulfathiazole (Seachem Sulfaplex). Can be used separately or combined* together.

  7. Erythromycin (Maracyn) – Best antibiotic for treating eye infections. Minocycline (Maracyn 2) can be added to widen spectrum of treatment. Or Kanamycin (Seachem Kanaplex) is a suitable alternative to using Minocycline.

  8. Antibacterial bath treatments: Ruby Reef Rally (which contains acriflavine) or Methylene Blue. Also, almost any antibiotic (kanamycin, nitrofurazone, sulfathiazole, neomycin) that is normally dosed in a QT can be double dosed in a 30-35 minute bath treatment. Aerate the bath for at least 30 minutes prior, and maintain aeration + temperature throughout.
* Disclaimer: Combining antibiotics (or any medications) is a controversial practice. At issue is the fish's liver & kidneys having to filter more than one medication, which can lead to internal organ damage and even death. Not to mention increased side effects and decreased available oxygen in the water from combining medications. Therefore, I only recommend mixing antibiotics when a fish has a severe bacterial infection. You will need to greatly increase gas exchange (e.g. multiple airstones cranked up high, powerhead(s) pointed towards the surface of the water) to compensate for oxygen depletion, and you can expect the fish's appetite to be suppressed.

When using antibiotics, it is very important to treat for 7 - 14 consecutive days. Sometimes a fish will look & act better after just a few days; however the infection can return if you end treatment prematurely. Or sometimes you may not notice any improvement right away, as antibiotics can be notoriously slow-acting with fish. It is also best to use Pharmaceutical-grade antibiotics instead of aquarium products if possible (this short video explains why). This sticky contains dosage info for many Pharma grade medications (including antibiotics): Medication Dosing Guide

The medications listed above are primarily meant to be dosed in water. Using antibiotics in a QT environment (or bath treatment) fits within the comfort level of most hobbyists. However, the absolute best way to apply antibiotics is via intramuscular injection (which is obviously difficult to do with small fish.) The first step is to sedate the fish using MS-222 (Tricaine Methanesulfonate). Next, inject an antibiotic (e.g. enrofloxacin), or a steroid such as dexamethasone to help reduce inflammation/swelling. The injection is made into the muscle on the side of the dorsal ridge (video here), angling the needle towards the head or tail to avoid hitting any major organs below. Typically you would use a tuberculin syringe with a 27 gauge needle to draw up the solution and a 30 gauge needle to inject. After the injection is complete, place the fish in a heavily oxygenated bucket with clean saltwater and glide the fish through the water until he is revived. Dosage for Intramuscular dexamethasone varies from 1-2 mg/kg, and for enrofloxacin it varies between 6.14 to 9.69 mg/kg. For most other antibiotics the dosage ranges from 4 to 10 mg/kg. (Mg=amount of medication, kg=weight of fish)

You can also food soak antibiotics; this is especially useful for treating internal infections. Neomycin will not get absorbed by a fish’s gastrointestinal tract, thus making it an excellent antibiotic to lace in food. I’ve also had success by food soaking kanamycin. Metronidazole is another good option and can also be used to treat internal flagellates. See Table 1 (here) for other antibiotics which can be soaked in food. It is also important to use a binder to reduce loss of medication to the water through diffusion (this also makes food soaking reef safe). Seachem Focus, unflavored gelatin or agar are all binding agents that can be used. My simple recipe** for food soaking antibiotics can be found below:
  • 1 tbsp food (preferably frozen food or pellets)
  • 1 scoop (~ 1/8 teaspoon) of medication
  • 1-2 scoops of Seachem Focus (binder)
  • Several drops of saltwater or fish vitamins to wet everything down
  • Stir until a medicated food slurry has been achieved
  • Feed after soaking for 30 mins
  • Refrigerate or freeze any leftovers for future use
  • Feed daily for 10-14 days
** The "proper way" to food soak medications is by weight. (Some sources say to weigh the food, some even say to weigh the fish. :eek:) I find this to be impractical for the casual hobbyist, and that my "shotgun approach" to food soaking antibiotics generally works. However, for those who wish to food soak antibiotics properly there are oral dosages listed here (Table 1): CIR 84/FA084: Use of Antibiotics in Ornamental Fish Aquaculture

Pros: Can be mixed with other medications; however effectiveness may be limited if used in the presence of an immunosuppressive (e.g. copper, Chloroquine).

Cons/Side Effects: Appetite suppression, depletes water of oxygen (so provide additional gas exchange), and antibiotics can be harsh on certain fish. Antibiotics dosed in water are also notoriously slow acting with fish.

Further reading below:

Use of Antibiotics in Ornamental Fish Aquaculture

Aquarium Medications Part 2 | Antibiotic & Antimicrobial Treatments

Related videos:



 
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ColinT

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Hey Humblefish, when treating a fish in a quarantine tank with an antibiotic like Erythromycin, I assume that it does no good and maybe some harm to set up an Aquaclear filter with bacteria in the sponge as the antibiotic will probably just kill the bacteria. For this type of set up, should I use Prime and water changes to control the ammonia then? Thank you!
 

Jessican

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Are the marks on the white areas of this clownfish something that warrant antibiotics? I never see marks like these in a DT, but any clownfish I have in a QT tank seems to get them. He’s currently in a QT where I just started dosing General Cure, so that contains metro, but should I add Kanaplex and/or Furan-2, or wait and see if the metro helps?

0A4D08CE-5FF2-4A20-B692-08D7F34F4384.jpeg


He’s also been eating metro and fenbendazole-laced food for the past two weeks for stringy white poo, but that internal route isn’t helping with the external marks.
 

Jessican

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@Jessican Whenever I see weird stuff on clownfish, I always dose Kana + Metro. That seems to resolve many issues they have.
I'm on day 8 of dosing metro (on the high side - 250mg/10g) & kana for this guy, and he's not looking any better. He might even look worse? He's acting better, though - up swimming around, rather than just hanging out at the bottom of the tank, and he's still eating just fine. Should I keep going with the metro + kana this week, add in Furan-2, or maybe do a cipro bath? Or maybe a rally bath? I'd like to get him out of the QT next week and back into his tank, since the fallow period will be over, and I'm pretty sure QT water quality has something to do with these marks, but I'm not sure it would be okay to move him back looking the way he does.

Edit: the more I look at him, the more I think that maybe he needs another round of copper or CP. I can't get a good picture that shows what I'm seeing - he looks better in photos than he does in person - but my gut tells me there's something else going on. None of the marks look like open wounds, so maybe I'll try a 150ppm peroxide bath and then into a clean QT for observation before I medicate with anything else. :confused: Should I maybe do a Rally bath before the peroxide, or is that unnecessary?
 
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Jessican

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I tried to get some photos and video. YouTube keeps borking the video quality when I upload, so I don't know how useful this will be:
And then photos, which I think make him look better than he looks in person:
1624BAED-4C8C-4440-A879-F0347A7599EC.jpeg


EE2EB302-81FF-4EA5-AEFE-E7277B44FF62.jpeg


7452B14A-4CA1-4AA9-94A6-73A8E986C654.jpeg


I mean if I saw these photos posted by someone else, I'd say he has brook. But he's spent the last week in the high end dose of metro, so how can that be? Am I on the right track at all with antibiotics?
 

Jessican

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@Jessican Rally works amazingly well when clownfish have brook. In fact, some LFS I advise just give clownfish w/brook a 90 minute Rally bath and then throw them right back into the same system. Brook does not often come back.

Is the metro you've been using close to pharmaceutical grade? Metroplex is only 70% active.
It's Thomas Labs' Fish Zole Forte, the tablets with 500mg of metronidazole in them. As far as I know, it's pharmaceutical grade.

Should I do a rally or peroxide bath then? Or should I switch to Cipro? I'm setting up a clean QT to move them into now, and have a bucket going for a bath in whatever you recommend.
 

Humblefish

HF
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Wandering Nomad
Should I do a rally or peroxide bath then? Or should I switch to Cipro? I'm setting up a clean QT to move them into now, and have a bucket going for a bath in whatever you recommend.

Both Rally or peroxide should eliminate brook, but Rally is the more proven commodity at this point. So, unless you are wanting to experiment I would go with a 90 min Rally bath.

Cipro baths would be my next move if Rally doesn't clear this up.
 

Jessican

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Both Rally or peroxide should eliminate brook, but Rally is the more proven commodity at this point. So, unless you are wanting to experiment I would go with a 90 min Rally bath.

Cipro baths would be my next move if Rally doesn't clear this up.
Rally it is then! This poor guy has been through enough, I don't want to experiment on him at this point. So after Rally, should I just observe for a bit or go ahead and resume the metro dosing?
 

Jessican

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I would just observe. Maybe just add a mild antibiotic (e.g. neomycin) to the QT for good measure.
Okay, they’re in the bath now and the clean QT is warming up in the meantime. I don’t have any neomycin, would erythromycin work? Otherwise I can order neoplex to be here on Wednesday.

Nevermind, back into CP they go. Pretty classic velvet outbreak on the royal gramma this morning. 😭
 
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Jessican

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@Jessican Was the gramma given a H2O2 bath at any point? (Just trying to figure out if H2O2 failed to eradicate velvet here.)
No, just a Rally bath last night, and he’s been in metro + kana for the last two weeks. They also all went through CP for two weeks at the beginning of the month. I haven’t used peroxide on these guys at all. Should I do a peroxide bath this morning or just let the CP do its job?

Here’s what I think happened: I didn’t have enough salt water ready last night to set up the clean QT, so I went and bought some. The closest store was out, so I went to the next one, which is the one I think has contaminated fish in the first place. Then this morning, boom, velvet. Is it possible that their fresh saltwater is contaminated too, and could cause a visible outbreak overnight like that? They said they were cleaning their holding tank and had the water in Brute cans, so who knows what else they use those for. I mean maybe it was already there and was being suppressed and then the stress of a bath just brought it out, but it’s an awfully big coincidence and at this point, I’m never setting foot in that store again. :mad: I’m so over this.
 

Humblefish

HF
Thread starter
Location
Wandering Nomad
No, just a Rally bath last night, and he’s been in metro + kana for the last two weeks. They also all went through CP for two weeks at the beginning of the month. I haven’t used peroxide on these guys at all. Should I do a peroxide bath this morning or just let the CP do its job?

I would give him a peroxide bath (for temporary relief), and then dose CP into the QT just to be sure.

Here’s what I think happened: I didn’t have enough salt water ready last night to set up the clean QT, so I went and bought some. The closest store was out, so I went to the next one, which is the one I think has contaminated fish in the first place. Then this morning, boom, velvet. Is it possible that their fresh saltwater is contaminated too, and could cause a visible outbreak overnight like that? They said they were cleaning their holding tank and had the water in Brute cans, so who knows what else they use those for. I mean maybe it was already there and was being suppressed and then the stress of a bath just brought it out, but it’s an awfully big coincidence and at this point, I’m never setting foot in that store again. :mad: I’m so over this.

Ya know, I've always been paranoid about that. LFS employees putting their hands in tanks with diseases and then fooling around with the SW vat. There are lots of @Paul Bs working at these LFS. :p
 

Jessican

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I would give him a peroxide bath (for temporary relief), and then dose CP into the QT just to be sure.
Just him, or all of the fish in the QT?

Ya know, I've always been paranoid about that. LFS employees putting their hands in tanks with diseases and then fooling around with the SW vat. There are lots of @Paul Bs working at these LFS. :p
Well, it’s a reasonable enough possibility that it’s not a risk I’ll be taking again for sure. I’m so mad at myself right now - here I’m trying to get them healthy and I just make it 10x worse.
 
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