Did my molly hit?

Users who are viewing this thread

Quiverfull

New member
Country flag
Hello:

new to the forum. I have 4 lyretail anthias (1 male and 3 female) that have been in my QT for 15 days. They are in with a single black molly. Last night I noticed some spots on the molly. It does not seem to be bothered by them and the anthias all are doing great-acting normal and eating frozen and flake food without difficulty. Here is the video of the molly:

If you think that I need to treat, what do you suggest as i have heard anthias are very sensitive to copper. I have Cupramine and Prazipro.

Thanks for your help.
 

Quicklynx

Well-known member
Country flag
Looks like ich. You can try the hybrid tank transfer method. The Anthias have been doing well with this method. Fish + peroxide compatibility list

Might as well run the molly with them, but this Molly is no longer able to be used as the canary. You'll need to convert another one, and recommend placing them when the TTM is complete.

Personally I run a minimum of 3 mollies per test. It's overkill but you never know if one just happens to be immune.
 

Quiverfull

New member
Thread starter
Country flag
Thank you for the suggestion and the link @Quicklynx. So I need to set up another QT tank for the H202 dip and then place them back in the original QT with copper (Cupramine) for 2 weeks after?

I had 4 mollies in a prior QT run which I prophylactically ran prazipro for a copper band butterfly but must have overdosed because 3 of the 4 mollies died shortly after dosing. The copper band was fine. That experience was why I wanted to just try the molly without prophylactic treatment hoping I would get through 30 days of QT without having to treat the anthias. Do I need to adjust the dose of Cupramine for the anthias?
 

Quicklynx

Well-known member
Country flag
Thank you for the suggestion and the link @Quicklynx. So I need to set up another QT tank for the H202 dip and then place them back in the original QT with copper (Cupramine) for 2 weeks after?

I had 4 mollies in a prior QT run which I prophylactically ran prazipro for a copper band butterfly but must have overdosed because 3 of the 4 mollies died shortly after dosing. The copper band was fine. That experience was why I wanted to just try the molly without prophylactic treatment hoping I would get through 30 days of QT without having to treat the anthias. Do I need to adjust the dose of Cupramine for the anthias?

With the Hybrid TTM you do not need Copper. That, to me, is the best part about it. Hybrid TTM to treat all parasites!

You would run the tank transfers with just the fish being quarantined. Your Mollies you would have in a separate tank, in which you convert to salt and deworm them.

Once the tank transfer are complete and the fish have been dewormed, you then add the mollies for a few weeks. All in all the process takes about a month, which is quicker than Copper, and a lot easier on the fish.

Something that I'm probably going to be incorporating is doing a formalin bath and a H2O2 bath (order doesn't matter, prior to transferring to Tank 1. In your situation I would say you can just use your current tank water and do the h202 bath since it probably will be ammonia/chlorine free and you won't need to dose prime. Then make brand new water for the formalin bath in a bucket.

After that transfer to Tank 1. Within 72 hours you can H2O2 bath the tank and transfer the fish into tank 2... and so on.

I also plan to incorporate Fenbendazole to the feedings.

The only purpose for the formalin and fenbendazole being added in this case is simply to ensure I kill off any Uronema, which H2O2 and General Cure don't work the best on apparently.
 

Quiverfull

New member
Thread starter
Country flag
Need a bit more advice. While I am waiting to set up the TTM as suggested. One of my anthias has developed bilateral mid body lesions and the left eye:

Screen Shot 2021-04-07 at 7.42.15 AM.png
 

Quicklynx

Well-known member
Country flag
Need a bit more advice. While I am waiting to set up the TTM as suggested. One of my anthias has developed bilateral mid body lesions and the left eye:

View attachment 22732
That's most likely Uronema. If the lesion isn't open yet you need to do a Formalin Bath ASAP, at the least H2O2

I stress the importance of ASAP. It really does need to happen now.

It could be a different form of bacterial strain, but if it is UM, you don't have much time.
 

Quicklynx

Well-known member
Country flag

H2O2 probably won't do much, so you'll need to dose Metro (General Cure has metro as well.) If you don't have formalin or Ruby Reef Rally, many LFS carry Ruby Reef Rally.

You also need to start feeding Metro/Fenbendazole or General Cure ASAP. It's likely if you're fish is showing UM on the scales it's already in the digestive organs as well.
 

Quiverfull

New member
Thread starter
Country flag
Do I treat the whole tank or do I take that particular fish out? I will start this afternoon.
 

Quicklynx

Well-known member
Country flag
Do I treat the whole tank or do I take that particular fish out? I will start this afternoon.

You'll want to treat the entire tank. UM is arguably the most challenging to defeat, and if the fish is susceptible to it, it will likely catch it again, in which the other fish could be carriers and not showing signs. They could show signs soon, so the treatment is proactive for them as well.
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
Location
Navarre, FL
Country flag
If the lesion isn't open yet you need to do a Formalin Bath ASAP, at the least H2O2
^^ Agree; Links below for both treatments:



Do one or the other, and then transfer the fish into a clean QT in order to avoid reinfection. Dose Metroplex every 24 hours and Kanaplex every 48 hours for at least 14 days.
 

Quiverfull

New member
Thread starter
Country flag
They are currently all in a 20g Long with heater and tidalpower HOB. Looks like I will need to go out and get another tank. Since it appears that time is of the essence, I will start dosing Metroplex in the current QT as that was all I could find at my LFS now. Once I have the second set up, I can do an H2O2 treatment. Does that seem reasonable. I will order the Kanaplex. Thanks for your help
 

Quicklynx

Well-known member
Country flag
They are currently all in a 20g Long with heater and tidalpower HOB. Looks like I will need to go out and get another tank. Since it appears that time is of the essence, I will start dosing Metroplex in the current QT as that was all I could find at my LFS now. Once I have the second set up, I can do an H2O2 treatment. Does that seem reasonable. I will order the Kanaplex. Thanks for your help
it does, you kind of have to do what you can, right!
 

Quiverfull

New member
Thread starter
Country flag
So I dosed the main QT (with the 3 other fish) with Metroplex, did a H2O2 bath for 30 min per instructions for the one with the lesions. I did not have another QT tank so this one went back into the main QT with the Metroplex in it. He seemed to tolerate the H2O2 very well. I will hopefully get the Kanaplex tomorrow evening and add that to the main QT with all the fish. I will follow the daily dosing of Metroplex and every other day dosing of the Kanaplex. Thanks for all your help!
 

Quicklynx

Well-known member
Country flag
So I dosed the main QT (with the 3 other fish) with Metroplex, did a H2O2 bath for 30 min per instructions for the one with the lesions. I did not have another QT tank so this one went back into the main QT with the Metroplex in it. He seemed to tolerate the H2O2 very well. I will hopefully get the Kanaplex tomorrow evening and add that to the main QT with all the fish. I will follow the daily dosing of Metroplex and every other day dosing of the Kanaplex. Thanks for all your help!
It's not as easy to observe fish, and downright hard, but if you don't have a tank but have a clean rubbermaid bin or something, you can use those too.

I've used walmart storage bins before in emergency situations.
 

Quiverfull

New member
Thread starter
Country flag
I can use the 2.5 gallon tank I bought for the H2O2 bath but I do not have a filter for that and my thinking was that I needed to treat the whole bunch together since I assume the other anthias are infected even though they do not show any signs currently. Should I just isolate the one and the molly and leave the others alone in the main QT without treatment? This whole thing seems to get more complex the more I get into it. I am up for the challenge and the experience so that going forward it will not appear so daunting. I really appreciate your help.
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
Location
Navarre, FL
Country flag
I can use the 2.5 gallon tank I bought for the H2O2 bath but I do not have a filter for that and my thinking was that I needed to treat the whole bunch together since I assume the other anthias are infected even though they do not show any signs currently. Should I just isolate the one and the molly and leave the others alone in the main QT without treatment? This whole thing seems to get more complex the more I get into it. I am up for the challenge and the experience so that going forward it will not appear so daunting. I really appreciate your help.
I think you can treat all of them in the 2.5 gallon for 30 minutes. You can now even use an airstone during a H2O2 bath:
 

Quiverfull

New member
Thread starter
Country flag
So update... A is just got home after work. the one I treated last evening did not make it. The other three anthias seem fine in the main QT. Should I transfer all the remaining ones into the 2.5g for 30 minutes (including the molly)? Do I need to re-dose the H2O2 in the small tank? What should I do with the 20g QT? I suspect I should do a complete water change? What about the filter media/sponge in the Tidal Power HOB - do I need to discard this?

Thanks for all the help...
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
Location
Navarre, FL
Country flag
So update... A is just got home after work. the one I treated last evening did not make it. The other three anthias seem fine in the main QT. Should I transfer all the remaining ones into the 2.5g for 30 minutes (including the molly)? Do I need to re-dose the H2O2 in the small tank? What should I do with the 20g QT? I suspect I should do a complete water change? What about the filter media/sponge in the Tidal Power HOB - do I need to discard this?
Do you have a new tank ready to transfer all the fish into following the peroxide bath?
 

Quiverfull

New member
Thread starter
Country flag
No, I do not have another full set up with filtration, heater etc. I was thinking that I can clean the old one with Clorox while the fish were in the H2O2 but not clear what to do about the biological media and sponge in the HOB filter. I have some bio balls in my DT that I can use for biofiltration and I have some microbacter 7 that I can add.
 
Top