Hybrid TTM to treat all parasites!

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Humblefish

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Sorry, here another follow up then
Pertaining to LOCAL fish purchases only from LFS:
Skip the first three days of hybrid TTM,
and essentially start hybrid TTM at DAY4? (ie h2o2 dip for 30min and then transfer from LFS bag to QT?)
For local fish purchases, I would actually administer the first peroxide bath before the fish ever enters QT and then follow this TTM schedule:

Day 1 – After the aforementioned H2O2 bath, fish is placed in initial QT. Roughly 72 hours later transfer the fish to new tank (Day 4). No peroxide.

Day 4 – 30 minutes before transfer (Day 7), turn off all pumps/water movement and dose 150 ppm H2O2 as outlined here: Hydrogen Peroxide

Day 7 – Repeat transfer (no peroxide).

Day 10 – Repeat transfer (no peroxide).

Day 13 – Repeat transfer and done :Thumbs_up_green:
 

Oscarmk

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Do you theoretically need 5 QT tanks for this? Or is it doable with 2, with sterilization in between?. Can seachem prime be used at all times here?
 
Hi everyone

so we have purchased two fishes: a Black-barred Surgeonfish (Acanthurus Polyzona) and a Gem Tang.

we are now on day 7 of hybrif TTM:
- both are eating very well, no signs of distress of any king.
- they were treated yesterday with Tremazol (against flukes)

BUT: I spotted something on the Gem Tang. I think it is probaly HILLE, but maybe it is bacterial? Also i am not sure how to proceed with the hybrid TTM.

@Humblefish can you help with the diagnotic? And do you think we can use peroxide on the fish in two days or what should we do?

Thanks for the help!

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@sakura That could be HLLE. The other possibility I'm thinking of is flukes were feeding there before you dosed Tremazol. Either way, I feel you are safe to proceed with using peroxide. (y)
We did the Peroxide Bath and the Transfer with the Gem Tang on sunday (two days ago) and are now on Day 12. Tomorrow the Fish will be transfered into observation.
But since yesterday the Gem Tang isn't eating, not swimming around as it used to and mostly staying in the PVC-Tubes. Do you have an idea what the problem could be? The other Tang ist doing just fine / eating whatever it catches...
 

Humblefish

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But since yesterday the Gem Tang isn't eating, not swimming around as it used to and mostly staying in the PVC-Tubes. Do you have an idea what the problem could be? The other Tang ist doing just fine / eating whatever it catches...
Are you noticing any other odd behavioral symptoms?
  • Heavy breathing, scratching, flashing, head twitching, erratic swimming behavior, yawning
  • Swimming into the flow of a water pump/wavemaker/powerhead
  • Acting reclusive
 
Are you noticing any other odd behavioral symptoms?
  • Heavy breathing, scratching, flashing, head twitching, erratic swimming behavior, yawning
  • Swimming into the flow of a water pump/wavemaker/powerhead
  • Acting reclusive
From alls of those: Seems to be breathing heavy at the moment. And yes, acting reclusive (doesn't come out, even when food arrives / hangs in PVC-Tubes mostly).
Also HLLE ist still there.

Otherwise didn't see anything else (not breathing at the surface, nor scratching, nor swimming by the pump).
 

Humblefish

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From alls of those: Seems to be breathing heavy at the moment. And yes, acting reclusive (doesn't come out, even when food arrives / hangs in PVC-Tubes mostly).
Also HLLE ist still there.

Otherwise didn't see anything else (not breathing at the surface, nor scratching, nor swimming by the pump).
Any meds in the water?
 

Humblefish

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No, no meds.
Tomorrow should be Time for Tremazol. But nothing today.
It could be flukes if deworming has not been completed:
 
It could be flukes if deworming has not been completed:
Okay, good thing we are using Tremazol tomorrow then! Hope it gets better!
Thank you!
 
It could be flukes if deworming has not been completed:
Sorry @Humblefish me again...
So the Gem started lying on the side outside of the tubes and starting to swim a bit, and lying and so on... so we changed a bit of water and dosed tremazol.
He is really fighting each time he is starting to lie on the side. At the moment swimming nicely... hope it stays that way.

any other tip what we could do?
 

Blackjack

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Hi, just finished wading through the 19 pages of this thread. A couple of questions I have that I don’t believe have been addressed are:

1. to minimize transfers and fish stress, can H2O2 be dosed directly into the tank while the fish is in it? In my case, it would be a 5 gallon food grade plastic bucket. I figured I would remove a gallon of water, dose that to the achieve the concentration required for the full 5 gallons, and then add back with the stirring etc.

2. in general, when one is transferring fish with a colander, you can allow the water to completely drain out similar to if you were netting the fish, or you could leave just enough to allow the fish to stay submerged, like a cup of water. Does the effort to minimize fish stress outweigh the benefit of minimizing possible transmission of disease?

thanks, looking forward to giving this a shot
 

Humblefish

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1. to minimize transfers and fish stress, can H2O2 be dosed directly into the tank while the fish is in it? In my case, it would be a 5 gallon food grade plastic bucket. I figured I would remove a gallon of water, dose that to the achieve the concentration required for the full 5 gallons, and then add back with the stirring etc.
Yes, you can dose H2O2 directly into a tank or bucket 30 minutes prior to transfer. Hopefully soon I'll run some tests which will prove that you can dose H2O2 directly into a running QT (with pumps, air stones still operating).

2. in general, when one is transferring fish with a colander, you can allow the water to completely drain out similar to if you were netting the fish, or you could leave just enough to allow the fish to stay submerged, like a cup of water. Does the effort to minimize fish stress outweigh the benefit of minimizing possible transmission of disease?
I would transfer over as little water as possible. The fish doesn't have to be completely dry or anything like that, but I wouldn't add any excess water to the next transfer tank.
 

AWall

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Maybe pulling the chute early on Hybrid TTM...recall my worries with a terminal male Scotts.

Started TTM on April 4th; Scotts was in an observation tank (4ft 55Gallon) that I had running for a few months for some corals that I had in holding for 90 days. Scott’s was in, eating well. Metro+Fenbendazole feedings for 14 days to clear up the white crap. Fixed that issue. Noticed some spots on him.

Did two doses prazi, and he blew through those no issues.

Spots would still come and go. So my options were either copper or TTM with H2o2 dips as per the top of this thread.

Anyway, 4 days in and the guy looks ultimately stressed. Laying on his side, but breathing normal.

I had to move him on day 2 (before 72 hours) because he was looking lethargic, and I wanted him in new water. Did the h2o2 dip and he was fine after the dip in the new tank...ate well and swimming around. Dip was 15ml h2o2 in a gallon of 1.024 water (used some of the water he was already in. Day 3, he was “okay” wasn’t his usual rambunctious self; I chalked that up to fairy wrasse drama. But he still ate.

Day 4: Today marks the first day he is showing no interest in eating. I have transferred him into a new tank, sterile obviously...but added some sand, rock and some marine pure from my display tank...as this may be the end of the adventure for me unless he miraculously starts swimming like a bullet again.

I hope he pulls through, but I’ve been having bad luck with these beauties for a year now. So prett glass half empty but been through this rodeo a few times. I’m listed as the second leading cause of death to Scotts and Lineatus behind climate change.

I don’t know if I did something wrong (I Dont think I did, I was extra nervous and being very careful) or if this guy just couldn’t handle the moves and being in a 10 gallon opaque sterilite bin.

I’m beginning to lean towards h2o2 dip in introduction to a sterile observation, deworm. Give them a month and fresh water dip before introduction to main display. I can’t keep losing these guys...it sucks.

Any thoughts or opinions on the matter or questions to lead to thoughts or opinions are welcome.
 

Humblefish

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I’m beginning to lean towards h2o2 dip in introduction to a sterile observation, deworm. Give them a month and fresh water dip before introduction to main display. I can’t keep losing these guys...it sucks.
I'm actually working on a new QT protocol for fairy & flasher wrasses, which is basically:
  1. 30 minutes in H2O2 @ 150ppm
  2. 30 minutes in NFG @ 100mg per gallon
  3. Place in a more natural observation tank (29 gallon pic below)
  4. Deworm using Prazipro 2x, 5-7 days apart
  5. Observe using black mollies for 30 days: Black Molly Quarantine
No other treatments necessary unless symptoms show up.

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AWall

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I'm actually working on a new QT protocol for fairy & flasher wrasses, which is basically:
  1. 30 minutes in H2O2 @ 150ppm
  2. 30 minutes in NFG @ 100mg per gallon
  3. Place in a more natural observation tank (29 gallon pic below)
  4. Deworm using Prazipro 2x, 5-7 days apart
  5. Observe using black mollies for 30 days: Black Molly Quarantine
No other treatments necessary unless symptoms show up.


that is quality! Thank you Humblefish...Need something, these fairies are just not liking anything.

Anecdotally, every younger fairy I have just breezes through whatever I throw at them...any meds. Always the terminal males that give issues...and knowing this, I’ll let them settle in for weeks and start trying copper and boom...swimming upside down and gone.

please let us all know how this fairy specific treatment goes. I know I need to change up the play book.
 
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