Hybrid TTM to treat all parasites!

bken1313

Member
I put a coris wrasse through Hybrid TTM with one 75 ppm and one 150 ppm baths 6 days apart. No issue what so ever. All other fish in the list got 2x 150ppm.

Fish I’ve successfully treated using Humbles Hybrid TTM include (grouped by batch):

2x pajama cardinals
1x Coris wrasse

1x yellow eye kole tang

1x green spotted mandarin (subsequently murdered by Japanese pistol shrimp)
1x yellow tang.
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
OK, but you've personally not encountered problems with H2O2 baths, correct?
fwiw, neither have I, and I've probably put 20 fish through it at 150ppm. No wrasses, to be fair, but one anthias and it seemed to do fine.
I've only encountered problems with fish already on death's door. I.E. Heavily diseased fish from Petco that were likely too far gone to be saved.
 

mattzang

Active member
i did a h2o2 bath on a magnificent foxface over the weekend and another success!

altho i wouldn't advise doing the bath in a glass jar on the ground and letting your cat get in there and start pawing at the glass. that seemed to cause a little extra stress to the fish
 

Kups

New member
Today was the final transfer for my royal gramma and blue spotted puffer. Unfortunately I found the royal gramma dead. His body was 100% intact with signs of trauma. It's been long enough since his h2o2 bath that I doubt that had anything to do with it. My best guess is stress? I've had him for over a year in a biocube with no apparent issues. There was definitely ich in that tank though.
The puffer seems fine and hasn't shown any signs of ich which is great. He's in tank 4 and will hopefully be going into my new DT on Sunday night.
 

Kups

New member
I was using egg crate. It hit the top of the biocube before though and ended up in the back chamber.
 

Kups

New member
The puffers final day in TTM was today and he looked great. I introduced him into the DT as I've had him for months and was only concerned about Ich with him. Under the T5s of the DT I could see what looks like white spots on his fins in a few spots. The blue light seemed to bring out what I couldn't see under standard lighting.
I'm curious how long after ich falling off a fish can show mucous spots? I'll add some black mollies to the DT before moving forward with any other new additions.
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish

Kups

New member
They are tiny and not on the edges. Very very difficult to see as those fins tend to always be moving. I can only see it under blue T5 lighting. Nothing on the body
 

Reefhog

Member
CP has been and is currently my method of choice. But it does seem to be getting harder to find 99% pure in powder form and there are several fish that don't do well with CP. So I've been following this thread and have a few questions.
Can I use seeded sponge filters in the tanks instead of worrying about over feeding and ammonia? Obviously replaced at every transfer. They're like $6 for 4 on Amazon.
Working second shift, I would like to do the 36 hour transfers at noon and midnight. Would transferring at midnight be an issue since it will be hours after the lights are out?
Are we still worried about the silicone and H2O2? I would prefer to do the bath in the TTM tank 30 minutes before the transfers. My tanks would be identical so less stress on the fish. especially at midnight.
 

Reefhog

Member
According to this compatibility chart, silicone is fine at the concentration we use.

Good article. I could be wrong, but the compatibility being referred to in the chart seems more about the breakdown of the material and not so much about possible absorption of the H202. I suppose one could say that if the material were absorbing any H202, there would be some indication of material breakdown. Is there an easy way of testing water for H202 concentration?
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
Can I use seeded sponge filters in the tanks instead of worrying about over feeding and ammonia? Obviously replaced at every transfer. They're like $6 for 4 on Amazon.
Yes; a small population of nitrifying bacteria (in the sponges) shouldn't be enough to degrade Chloroquine significantly.

Working second shift, I would like to do the 36 hour transfers at noon and midnight. Would transferring at midnight be an issue since it will be hours after the lights are out?
Unfortunately, that will stress the fish out more because you'll be trying to catch them during their normal sleep time. :(

Are we still worried about the silicone and H2O2? I would prefer to do the bath in the TTM tank 30 minutes before the transfers. My tanks would be identical so less stress on the fish. especially at midnight.
It's possible that some of the H2O2 sticks to the silicone, but I don't see it being a significant problem.

Is there an easy way of testing water for H202 concentration?
This test kit only measures up to 10ppm: https://www.hannainst.com/hi3844-hydrogen-peroxide-test-kit.html

I know @Jessican has been using it.
 

Jessican

Well-known member
This test kit only measures up to 10ppm: https://www.hannainst.com/hi3844-hydrogen-peroxide-test-kit.html

I know @Jessican has been using it.
I get weird readings from it, though. It would tell me that my concentration was only 0.5ppm after all-night dosing, and I'm sure it wasn't getting depleted that fast when I was dosing every 15 minutes. It also would give me the same reading both before and after a large dose. I'm not sure it's all that great. Plus, like you mentioned, it only goes to 10ppm so that won't help with bath concentrations anyway.
 

Reefhog

Member
Yes; a small population of nitrifying bacteria (in the sponges) shouldn't be enough to degrade Chloroquine significantly.
I was actually referring to TTM Hybrid quarantine for wrasses, Hipo Tangs or other CP sensitive fish.
Unfortunately, that will stress the fish out more because you'll be trying to catch them during their normal sleep time. :(
That'll be a tough one then as I can't change my shift. I've had wrasses before and they'd typically go to bed about 20 minutes before lights out. So I'm not sure changing lighting schedule would be feasible. It's my wife that actually wants a Hippo Tang and McCoskers or Carpenters Wrasse. Guess I'll have to convince her to do the two evening transfers.
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
I was actually referring to TTM Hybrid quarantine for wrasses, Hipo Tangs or other CP sensitive fish.
Ah gotcha. But why even bother with a biofilter? Ammonia typically does not buildup after just 3 days and even if it does you can dose Prime every 24 hours. I don't foresee complications dosing H2O2 after Prime has been dosed.

That'll be a tough one then as I can't change my shift. I've had wrasses before and they'd typically go to bed about 20 minutes before lights out. So I'm not sure changing lighting schedule would be feasible. It's my wife that actually wants a Hippo Tang and McCoskers or Carpenters Wrasse. Guess I'll have to convince her to do the two evening transfers.
If you did have to do the transfer at midnight, I would at least leave a light on in the room so the fish don't go (fully) to sleep.
 

Reefhog

Member
I’ve got my wife feeding the CBB and moorish idol in QT a couple times in evenings now. Shouldn’t be an issue getting her to transfer fish a couple times. I’ll make sure new tank is ready to go before I go to work.
 
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