It’s mystery

Omg

New member
Hi guys, I’ve had a theory from a local reefer but wondered what you guys reckon, I had 42 that had to be moved, they went in a koi vat using my sump, I’ve had some of my fish for 5 years, the last added fish was Oct 19 and all the fish have been in good health with only the odd spot of ich on my pyramids now and again, all was well for for 3 weeks after the move, I then did a tank break down as there was a couple of fish I wanted so added them to my system, the fish added looked in perfect health, had been in there tank for over 6 months with no health issues at all, 6 days ago I started to loose fish, 6 days later out of my 42 fish I have 3 left! Now the surprising bit to me is the extra fish I added are all still alive and look in good health! Can anyone tell me what might be going on here? I’m guessing it’s Brook/Velv, water quality is good! Many thanks for reading
 

Susan

Active member
@Humblefish had posted this on another thread. I had also read on another post (haven’t found it yet) that something about the genes? Of one of the parasites (maybe ich) would die out in 5 years if no new strands where added?
Humblefish post👇
So many things factor into this:
  1. DT size - Parasites in larger aquariums are not as dangerous because increased water volume naturally dilutes them. It's always a numbers game with pathogens. Fish can tolerate some parasites here & there, because that is what they have to deal with in the ocean. What they can't handle is being in a glass box with an overwhelming amount of parasites feeding on them. That is when fish start dying.
  2. Management tools - UV, ozone, diatom filter can help manage parasite numbers by siphoning out free swimmers. Typically though, you need an oversized unit to have any real impact.
  3. Proper Nutrition - You have to feed live foods + seafood to really boost a fish's immune system. (Not flakes or pellets.) The bacteria found in fresh seafood (especially clams & mussels) increases a fish's gut microbiota which in turn enhances their immune system. Freezing kills some, but not all, of the beneficial bacteria found in seafood.
  4. Age of aquarium - Parasites have natural predators. Older aquariums (like Paul's) have increased biodiversity. I've uncovered evidence that certain strains of bacteria & cleaner shrimp EAT Ich tomonts.
I wrote this a while back which you might find useful: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
 

Susan

Active member
Maybe this is what I had read. Humble wrote a post “marine Ich” I think you can look it up under search.

Ich goes away on its own.MOSTLY FALSE. So long as fish are present, ich continues its life cycle for almost 4 years (on average). If another fish is introduced with ich, the new strain restarts the 4 year clock. The only way to eradicate ich from your tank is to go fallow for 76 days, treat all your fish and quarantine all livestock moving forward!
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
A wipeout that fast screams velvet: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/marine-velvet-disease.12/

It's possible the new fish you added were asymptomatic carriers of a disease your existing fish had no immunity to. Akin to how European settlers wiped out most of North America's indigenous peoples via introduced pathogens the latter had no immunity to. Happens like that with fish as well.
 

Omg

New member
Thank you for the replies, interesting and the best theory I’ve had, I’ve not thought of this, at this time the new fish are still alive but show symptoms and I have 2 of my original fish (purple tang and cleaner wrasse) I’ve had difficulty getting some cp but now got some, I’m going with protocol 1, in my treatment tank (frag) I have 142ltr of water should I reduce this down to 100ltr as I have only 20 x 250mg tablets, I’ve got some prime ready and have the purple 4”, 2 x fox faces 4” & 3”, copperband 3”, cleaner wrasse, 3 x chromes, and a marine betta 3”. And if I may ask after treatment I’ll clean th3 tank and sterilise can I continue to use it as my frag tank I.e nothing leaches out like copper etc? Thank you both for your help!
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
And if I may ask after treatment I’ll clean th3 tank and sterilise can I continue to use it as my frag tank I.e nothing leaches out like copper etc?
I would run carbon after treatment is complete and wouldn't add any corals/inverts to the tank until you see algae growing again. I do not believe that Chloroquine is dangerous to corals outright; rather it kills the zooxanthellae living inside them.
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish

Omg

New member
Sorry to keep asking, I thought with protocol 1 I have no filter just power head and air stone?
 

Omg

New member
Update: so the 10 days treatment is done (12 to be exact) all fish look well and spot free, only lost the cleaner wrasse but I was battling with ammonia, heres the crunch I added carbon 24 hours ago to try and clear up the water as I am struggling to get a delivery of salt due to current problems, I’ve now got some so can transfer the fish to clean sterile water but have I messed the treatment up by adding the carbon 24 hours ago with the fish still in it? I thought the cp kills the velvet nasties?
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
Update: so the 10 days treatment is done (12 to be exact) all fish look well and spot free, only lost the cleaner wrasse but I was battling with ammonia, heres the crunch I added carbon 24 hours ago to try and clear up the water as I am struggling to get a delivery of salt due to current problems, I’ve now got some so can transfer the fish to clean sterile water but have I messed the treatment up by adding the carbon 24 hours ago with the fish still in it? I thought the cp kills the velvet nasties?
CP kills free swimmers, but velvet tomonts may still be in the QT. :( You have to make the transfer before running carbon which probably removed all the CP from the water. You can still make the transfer, but I would observe (with black mollies) for at least a month.
 
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