Matt’s IM 100 ext

Humblefish

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I’ve heard that and others say they’re super easy lol so I guess I’ll find out. My main concern with going this route is I can’t tell very well if it’s eating well in the tub and it’s the only fish in there. But in 6 days it’ll go in my observation tank with a molly and some baby (edible?) mollies lol so hopefully those work as dither fish
I've had some luck with feeding them calanus.
 

mattzang

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updates:

-hard to tell if the anthias is eating. like advertised, pretty reclusive. i've just been tossing food in i think it should eat (lrs, rods, mysis, calanus, cyclops, bloodworms, enriched brine) and he's out of the tub on monday so i should have a better idea of how skinny he is then.

i used to freak out about fish not eating, but not that i don't care, but i just don't think there's a lot one can do. feed it stuff it should eat and hope for the best i guess. i might resort to a bottle of pods or preferably live blackworms if the lfs has them in.

-moved what CUC i had in QT over to the DT. invert QT did not go well. the initial salinity issues were not good, but i think a lot of stuff just.. died. maybe i'll try that again, but with some black mollies in there so it's more of a normal tank? i fed the tank so idk what difference there will be. sucks tho, i spent probably $100+ on cuc and in my DT i think i have a few turbo snails, a couple conchs, and a couple nassarius snails to show for it. i don't think a single astrea or trochus made it lol. just makes me think yet again paying a bit of a premium to have someone else QT stuff is totally worth it. no hassle, some stuff will still probably not survive shipping, but it'll be better than this.

-moving the moyers wrasse to the DT tonight. kinda been putting it off because i'll have to dig her up, but i need to reduce bioload in the observation tank since i neglect it. giving the clowns away to a good home and moving the moyers will just leave me with: flame angel, orchid dottyback, and the two mollies. so that should help. i was tempted to toss the orchid in the DT too, but i want some small female wrasses so i'd rather they don't have to deal with two damsels and a dottyback along with other wrasses on introduction, so orchid can go in later towards the end

and i got a polyp lab lens thingy so hopefully my photos are less awful going forward :D
 

Humblefish

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Navarre, FL
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-moved what CUC i had in QT over to the DT. invert QT did not go well. the initial salinity issues were not good, but i think a lot of stuff just.. died. maybe i'll try that again, but with some black mollies in there so it's more of a normal tank? i fed the tank so idk what difference there will be. sucks tho, i spent probably $100+ on cuc and in my DT i think i have a few turbo snails, a couple conchs, and a couple nassarius snails to show for it. i don't think a single astrea or trochus made it lol. just makes me think yet again paying a bit of a premium to have someone else QT stuff is totally worth it. no hassle, some stuff will still probably not survive shipping, but it'll be better than this.
In theory, using black mollies should cut the coral/invert QT time period down to 1 month. IF you can quarantine in batches and not add anything new during the 30 days. And you need to keep a close eye on the mollies (monitor daily).

I've found when quarantining CUC you have to feed them daily: Nori, algae wafers, slivers of raw shrimp for any carnivores. You should always see them eating something in the tank.
 

mattzang

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38350535-CE06-46BC-8CC9-088F9B2D856F.jpeg

With orange filter on

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With just the clear filter on, not sure this does much lol

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Fast moving fish doesn’t seem to work well as my phone has issues focusing

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Multicolor is a tough one to get right as the white on gray areas really cause my phone to go haywire

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Filter definitely seems to work best on stationary targets lol
 

mattzang

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In theory, using black mollies should cut the coral/invert QT time period down to 1 month. IF you can quarantine in batches and not add anything new during the 30 days. And you need to keep a close eye on the mollies (monitor daily).

I've found when quarantining CUC you have to feed them daily: Nori, algae wafers, slivers of raw shrimp for any carnivores. You should always see them eating something in the tank.
yeah the black mollies worry me a bit as I might just miss something. Where this way I just set a date and don’t add anything and I’m good.
I probably should’ve done more nori or large pieces of cocktail shrimp but I just kinda poured some frozen in every couple days

either way I’ll probably see if I can find some local stuff and start again plus dr reef is working on a fish order for me so I’ll get some inverts there too. Thankfully urchins don’t need qting!
 

mattzang

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QT update:

sunburst is eating! that said, it makes my cbb look like an aggressive eater. still just day 2 in the tank, but i pour food in, wait an entire minute, and then he's kinda like. oh hey, is that food? maybe i'll eat some food. ok i'm eating food.

pencil wrasse and pintail wrasse seem to be doing well except the pencil buries at like 3 pm so gotta get my feedings going earlier. i think the pencil is eating, but he kinda cruises the tub constantly so it's harder to tell on activity when i feed. the pintail hangs out in a pvc pipe and so when i feed i see him pop out and zip around the tank.

sunburst gets a few days to settle in, but then he's gonna have to snatch some food away from two wrasses which isn't easy

speaking of wrasses, i put my moyers wrasse in the DT finally and that fish is terrified of me, not that i blame her. she basically stays in the back behind the rocks, especially when she sees me. but i went to pour food in and walked away and boom she's zipping around mowing down all food. quite the contrast with the sunburst lol
 
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