Medication Dosing Guide

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Loosing Nemo

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I wanted to compile a quick reference of the most common aquarium medications we use, and provide dosing guidelines/ranges for each. Below you will find information pertaining to both aquarium brand medications and related generics. Generally speaking, using generics (I buy from here) is preferred because they are more pure and contain less fillers. However, you will need to use a small digital scale to accurately measure generic medications. Also keep in mind that some medications (especially antibiotics) will have ranges listed - lowest to highest tolerated therapeutic range. It's best to use the low range when treating species that are known to be sensitive to medications (e.g. anthias, dragonets, wrasses, scaleless fish, etc.) However, sometimes the only way to overcome a virulent infection (or similar) is to treat at maximum therapeutic.

** Antibiotics **
Ciprofloxacin: 1-2 hour bath treatment @ 250mg per gal. Repeat every 24 hours for 7 days. Methylene Blue can be added to increase efficacy.

Enrofloxacin: 9.5 - 19 mg/gal daily for 7 days; can be used both in a QT or as a 5 hour bath treatment.

Erythromycin (for eye infections): 12.5 - 25 mg/gal every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10-14 days.
Aquarium Brands: E.M. ERYTHROMYCIN (1 packet per 10 gallons) or Maracyn (1 packet per 10 gallons).

Kanamycin Sulfate: 25 - 37.5 mg/gal every 48 hours (24 hours for severe problems) with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 - 14 days.
Aquarium Brands: Seachem Kanaplex (1 scoop per 5 gallons) or AAP Spectrogram 1 capsule per 10 gals (Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone synergistic combination, which can also be used with Metronidazole.)

Neomycin Sulfate: 25 mg/gal every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. For fish tuberculosis, use for up to 30 days.
Aquarium Brands: Seachem Neoplex (1 measure per 2 gallons. Repeat this dose every 7 days to a maximum of 3 weeks.)

Nitrofuracin Green Powder: 1/4 teaspoon* per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 - 14 days.

* This works out to 1 gram per 20 gallons OR 50mg per gallon for in-tank treatment.

** NFG dosage is 100mg per gallon if doing just a 30 minute bath (thank you @Dierks).

Nitrofurazone: 10 - 25 mg/gal every 48 hours (24 hours for severe problems) with a 25-50% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 - 14 days.
Aquarium Brands: API Furan-2 (1 packet per 10 gallons) or AAP Spectrogram 1 capsule per 10 gals (Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone synergistic combination, which can also be used with Metronidazole.)

Sulfa drugs (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole): 25 mg/gal every 48 hours (24 hours for severe issues) with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for a minimum of 10 days.
Aquarium Brands: API Triple Sulfa (1 packet per 10 gallons) or Seachem SulfaPlex (2-3 measures per 10 US gallons. Repeat this dose every 72 hours for a maximum of 3 weeks.)

** Copper Products ** (therapeutic level) and dosage required to achieve this
Copper Power (2.5 ppm): 1.48ml per gallon (or use this dosing calculator discovered by @HarleySt)

Copper sulfate pentahydrate (0.20 ppm): More info here

Cupramine (0.50 ppm): 4 drops (0.2ml) per gallon OR 1ml per 5 gallons

Cuprion (0.20 ppm): 1 drop per gallon

* Both Coppersafe and Kordon Copper Aid (2.0 ppm) can be used; however follow the directions on the label AND confirm reading via Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter HI702. Actually, I would use the Hanna checker on all of the above as you may still need to dose a little extra in order to achieve full therapeutic.

** With copper never reach therapeutic all in one dosage! It's best to take at least 4-5 days (longer is ever better), dosing small amounts several times per day.

** Dewormers ** (External)
Fenbendazole: 12 hour bath treatment at 25 mg/L (95 mg/gallon)
** Bath must be repeated in about a week. Use this treatment calendar to determine when is the best time to do the SECOND bath: Marine Parasites

Hyposalinity: 15 ppt (1.011 SG) for 5 days eliminates juvenile and adult flukes + eggs. (y)

Praziquantel: 9.5 mg/gal (not easily water soluble so mix in a cup using a few drops of vodka before dosing)
Aquarium Brands: API General Cure (1 packet or scoop per 10 gallons) or Prazipro (1 teaspoon or 5ml per 20 gallons)
** Must be dosed at least TWICE, usually a week apart. Use this treatment calendar to determine when is the best time to add the second dose: Marine Parasites

** Dewormers ** (Internal)
My recipe for food soaking deworming medications can be found below:

Using a shot glass:
1 Tbsp food (preferably pellets or frozen food)
1 scoop (~ 1/8 teaspoon) of medication (API General Cure or Fenbendazole** + Metroplex)
1 or 2 scoops Seachem Focus (this makes it reef safe + binds the medication to the food)
A pinch of Epsom salt to help expel dead worms/parasites
A few drops of saltwater or fish vitamins
Stir until a medicated food slurry has been achieved.
Feed after soaking for 30 mins.
Refrigerate or freeze any leftovers for future use.
You can feed this mix 1-2 times per day. Not recommend to exceed 2 feedings per day with medicated food.

** There have been some reports that Fenbendazole doesn't always bind well to food, even when using Seachem Focus. Fenbendazole also doesn't appear to be as "reef safe" as praziquantel, metronidazole - the two active ingredients found in General Cure. Therefore, caution must be taken when using it in a tank with corals.

** Misc. **
Acriflavine: Best to use Ruby Reef Rally @ 1 teaspoon per gallon in a 90 minute bath. :Thumbs_up_green:

Chloroquine Phosphate: 40-60 mg/gal for 30 days (or 14 days and then transfer to a sterile observation tank at least 10 feet away)

DMSO: Aids in dissolving praziquantel, fenbendazole and other not easily water soluble medications. The following ratios were provided by @Dierks:
  • 1 ml of DMSO is required to dissolve 10mg of Fenbendazole
  • 1 ml of DMSO is required to dissolve 15mg of Metronidazole
  • 1 ml of DMSO is required to dissolve 20 mg of Praziquantel
Formalin (37% formaldehyde):
  • In-tank treatment: 1 milliliter (ml) per 10 gallons, or 2 drops per gallon daily in a bare aquarium.
  • Bath treatment: 30-60 minutes @ 0.6 ml per gallon, or 12 drops per gallon.
Freshwater Dip: No longer than 5 minutes (more info)

Hydrogen Peroxide: 20 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 gallon of saltwater for 30 minutes

Methylene Blue: Best to use an aquarium product such as Kordon or Fritz.
  • 30 min bath (preferred): 1 teaspoon (5 ml) per 5 gallons.
  • In a quarantine tank: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days with water changes before each treatment.
Metronidazole: 12.5 - 25 mg/gal every 48 hours (24 hours for severe problems) with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.
Aquarium Brands: Seachem MetroPlex (1-2 measures per 10 gallons. Repeat this dose every 48 hours for up to 3 weeks or until symptoms disappear.)

** You can use MS-222 Tricaine for both sedation and euthanasia: Tricaine-S

The spreadsheet for determining both dosages can be downloaded here: https://pentairaes.com/media/docs/treatment_calculator_excel_2010.xlsx
I have a question about the progress of my Ich treatment for my clownfish. I bought and transferred my clownfish (see picture 1) on May 14th. I treated her for 1-2 weeks of API Super Ich cure. I haven’t seen any white spots on her since May 26th. Today I switched to treating her with Copper Power (someone told me API Super Ich cure doesn’t work). I know Ich can lay for up to 76 days. Should I start the 76 days on the first day of API treatment OR should I start it today?

P.S. the second picture was taken today.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Dierks

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API Super Ich
This is mainly used for Freshwater Ich I believe.

Good news for you is you have a couple options! If you have a second tank that is nice and clean and can be setup with all different equipment from the current Quarantine tank then you only have to keep your little buddy in copper Power over 2.0 for 2 weeks!

If you dont have a second system to place the little guy into for observation then you have to go 30 days in copper above the 2.0. After that you can do a 100% water change and get the copper out of the tanks to observe the fish for 2 weeks. Hope this helps!

Also here is a great resource that covers the above in detail:
 

JCTReefer

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About to start a dosing regimen for chloroquine. I was reading that sometimes poly based filter media can remove Chloroquine. Does anyone know if the aquaclear filter sponges are poly based? It doesn’t say exactly what they are made of on the box.
Here’s a pic of them.
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JCTReefer

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@Jposch @Dierks Quick question. When the 10 days is up after the Chloriquine treatment and it’s time to transfer the fish to a sterile tank, whats the ideal way to do this? In my case the fish will have to be transferred to a bucket. Then I’ll break down the tank. Setup the sterile tank in its place. Water will already be ready to go for the sterile tank. And also filter will be pre-seeded also. I figured I would transfer the fish to a bucket with fresh saltwater, setup the sterile tank real quick, and then transfer them from the bucket that’s 10ft away to the newly setup Qt. Not sure how necessary the bucket being 10ft away is. Or would you dose the bucket with chloroquine? If I have to utilize the same spot to set up another tank and fish are being treated with copper, I usually net the fish out into a bucket thats predosed with copper. Then get all the equipment out of the room. Then bring in the new equipment, then use a new net to transfer the fish out of the bucket to the sterile tank.
 
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Jposch

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Yep. Same deal as copper. Since it'll be quick, you can slap a lid on the bucket to contain the fish, as well as keep any splashes out. I think the bucket is a good plan. Giving the fish a rinse between. I scoop fish out, and carry them across the basement one at a time. 😆 gives them a little drip dry.
I would closed the fish up in that bucket, move it away, drain and breakdown the old tank, move that stuff 10ft+ away, go wash your hands and arms, set up your observation, and then scoop the fish into that new tank. I've always wondered which scoop to use. The air dried QT scoop, or the scooper for the observation tanks. 🤔 as long as they are air dried between uses, it likely matters little.
As for the poly filter question, I believe as long as it doesn't say it removes ammonia, nitrate, etc. It should be fine.
The issue is likely with the name brand, "poly filter" that is used for removing heavy metals and contaminates.
Also, avoid rubbing the net or scoop against the bottom of the tank. Very slight chance you could accidentally grab some tomonts. I wouldn't risk reusing a light either. As salt creep, and splashes could be a source of contamination.
 

JCTReefer

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@Dierks probably has more to add. I will say, I am not a fan of swapping tanks in place like that, but I get that for some, ots all you can do. I don't even run qt batches back to back with sterilizing between, so 🤷
I’m not a fan either, but unfortunately the other 20 gallon has my first shipment in it still. That’s usually my transfer tank and spot. It’s in a completely different room. If I set up another tank somewhere else in the house my wife might kill me. 🤣. She’s been very tolerant of me having a Qt set up in the entryway for the last 9 months😳. And then the other Qt is set up in the kids play room. That has my second shipment in it. That room also has my old 54 gallon tank that’s still set up. And then there’s the 210 that’s in the living room. Jeez. I had planned on having the fish from the first shipment Qt’d and in the display by now. But after the whole possibility of Uronema being in that tank, I’ll have to wait until my eDNA results come back. I’m not transferring anything out of that tank until I know for sure it’s good to go. So, I just have to work with what I have. Not ideal no doubt.
 

Jposch

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I’m not a fan either, but unfortunately the other 20 gallon has my first shipment in it still. That’s usually my transfer tank and spot. It’s in a completely different room. If I set up another tank somewhere else in the house my wife might kill me. 🤣. She’s been very tolerant of me having a Qt set up in the entryway for the last 9 months😳. And then the other Qt is set up in the kids play room. That has my second shipment in it. That room also has my old 54 gallon tank that’s still set up. And then there’s the 210 that’s in the living room. Jeez. I had planned on having the fish from the first shipment Qt’d and in the display by now. But after the whole possibility of Uronema being in that tank, I’ll have to wait until my eDNA results come back. I’m not transferring anything out of that tank until I know for sure it’s good to go. So, I just have to work with what I have. Not ideal no doubt.
What makes you suspect uronema? Did you treat for it at all?
 

JCTReefer

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What makes you suspect uronema? Did you treat for it at all?
Well, you see. I posted a video of this particular damsel that had a couple of protruding bumps along its dorsal fin. And Humble said
“I've also seen Uronema pop up on Kupang Damsels like this.”
Now he didn’t say it was Uronema, just mentioned that he’s seen it pop up on azures. When it comes to damsels, Chromis are what comes to mind when I think of Uronema. Matter fact, that’s why I don’t do Chromis anymore. Well kinda. I never witnessed Uronema on any of the Chromis back in the day, but they’d always disappear one at a time. Now on this particular damsel it looked like white cysts of some sort. Looks nothing like any of the pictures I’ve seen of Uronema. 🤷🏼‍♂️ I’m no fish expert though!! Haha. I started them out in a copper metro combination. Then scratched that plan. So decided do the HTTM and two rounds of GC instead. That and were fed GC laced food for 2 weeks. I even did extra transfers to be safe. I suspected bacterial issues with the damsel so treated with 3 rounds of Spectrogram. I have not treated this tank directly for Uronema. Like I said, I had originally started this batch of fish with the intention of using copper. They made it almost a week in copper combined with metro dosing every 48hrs. The Hippo wouldn’t eat so I suspected copper was the issue. So that’s when I decided to just do HTTM on them instead. So, with that said, I haven’t directly treated for Uronema aside from what little metro they had for that first week. Well that and what little metro they got with the GC treatment. I believe GC has 250mg of metro and 75mg of prazi per packet. I was using one of Dierks Qt regimens. Was a great outline, I just couldn’t get the hippo to eat after I got above 2.0ppm. You never can tell which fish are going to be copper sensitive. Here’s a pic of the damsel in question.
I am paranoid about getting that crap in my tank so I decided to have it tested. I will say this damsel still isn’t behaving like it should. Mouth open constantly and breathing faster than the others. Been kinda hanging out in the corner also. There’s been a bit of aggression from the largest damsel in the tank. Go figure. Typical damsel behavior. Took a couple of pics a minute ago and it’s condition has improved a little. Ironically after 22 days the hippo now eats like a pig. So glad for that.
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JCTReefer

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Chloroquine should would well against urenema. I don't mess with damsel or cromis, so I guess I don't know first hand. I did just qt 3 yellow tail damsels I got from a tank breakdown, and haven't seen any symptoms, but they appeared healthy prior.
I have had several damsels over the years and have never seen Uronema on any of the Chrysiptera genus. These are pretty mild mannered for damsels. They’re hard to beat for that splash of color and movement. Pretty entertaining also. They mostly bicker amongst themselves. These are my “filler fish” for the main DT. I had thought of doing a round of Chloroquine in this tank instead of metro. Just to be safe. Lord knows I have plenty. That 100 grams will last me a while🤣. I also thought about waiting on the eDNA results before medicating any more. Thats gonna be a while. I missed sending the sample in before the cutoff for the last batch. Damn usps routed it wrong. All delivery companies are 💩.
 

JCTReefer

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Ime, the most mild mannered damsels are fusilier damsels. I've only gotten them once so far. Strangly, they were a tough sell, and I wound up keeping 2 of the 5. They seem awfully lonely with just the 2 of them, so if I see them again, I'll grab up a few more. Definitely peaceful, but a little shy, and not great color.
Yeah, the fusiliers are definitely peaceful. And high dollar compared to most other damsels. Haha. Seems all fish have gone up in price though. I remember paying 20-30$ for a yellow tang back in the day. Not anymore🤣. Damsels get a bad rap, that may be the reason they are hard to get rid of. I remember my old LFS used to label them not reef safe🤣🤣. Thought that was funny!! I guess unknowing customers would purchase them without doing their research and wind up bringing them back.. haha
 

Jposch

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Yeah, the fusiliers are definitely peaceful. And high dollar compared to most other damsels. Haha. Seems all fish have gone up in price though. I remember paying 20-30$ for a yellow tang back in the day. Not anymore🤣. Damsels get a bad rap, that may be the reason they are hard to get rid of. I remember my old LFS used to label them not reef safe🤣🤣. Thought that was funny!! I guess unknowing customers would purchase them without doing their research and wind up bringing them back.. haha
Really? When I got them, they were the same cost as other damsels. I sold them for $20 each after QT. But, again, hard to fond in the industry, but they are ubiquitous on the reefs across the globe.
 
Question about chloroquine… If I am using chloroquine for main QT (14 days) procedure:
  • Is the 14 days (once every 2 days) of metronidazole necessary?
  • What about Prazi 2 times 6 days apart?
  • I think I understand and oral general cure for 14 days mixed with food and focus is indicated for internal parasites/worms. Is this right?
 

Jposch

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The prazi, yes. Do a 50% w/c 24 hours after if appetite suppression is is issue. (Be sure to replace the Chloroquine) Do NOT use prazi-pro. The alcohol in it cause a bacterial bloom and probably accelerates degrading the chloroquine.
The metro dosing shouldn't be needed, but if it's for damsels, or cromis it probably would be a good idea. Unless @Dierks Or @Humblefish knows of an issue mixing them. Metronidazole is listed as an antibiotic on medical websites, so I would assume it could mayne help with bacterial degradation. Pure prazi+dmso is ok to use with chloroquine.
I do the deworming in observation after the transfer, unless a fish seems seriously infested. I can usually tell during the initial 2 days before starting CP.
 
The prazi, yes. Do a 50% w/c 24 hours after if appetite suppression is is issue. (Be sure to replace the Chloroquine) Do NOT use prazi-pro. The alcohol in it cause a bacterial bloom and probably accelerates degrading the chloroquine.
The metro dosing shouldn't be needed, but if it's for damsels, or cromis it probably would be a good idea. Unless @Dierks Or @Humblefish knows of an issue mixing them. Metronidazole is listed as an antibiotic on medical websites, so I would assume it could mayne help with bacterial degradation. Pure prazi+dmso is ok to use with chloroquine.
I do the deworming in observation after the transfer, unless a fish seems seriously infested. I can usually tell during the initial 2 days before starting CP.
Dang, I have prazipro.
Is there a good one on Amazon that I could get get delivered quick?
 
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