Medications to keep on hand

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Humblefish

Dr. Fish
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Wandering Nomad
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These are the bare essentials I recommend for quarantining:
  • Anti-parasitic: Copper Power with a Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter (HI702) for testing. Treats Ich & velvet.
  • Anti-parasitic: Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex); treats brook & uronema.
  • Dewormer: Prazipro or API General Cure.
  • Antibiotics: AAP Spectrogram or Nitrofuracin Green Powder
  • Emergency bath treatments: Ruby Reef Rally and Formalin
  • Internal Issues: Seachem Focus can be used with General Cure if internal parasites/intestinal worms are encountered (more info).
These are highly recommended, but not always necessary to have:
  • Anti-parasitic: Chloroquine Phosphate is an alternative to using copper, and treats Ich + Velvet + Brook + Uronema.
  • Dewormer: Fenbendazole can be used to treat prazi resistant worms (internal & external).
  • Bath treatment: Methylene Blue treats ammonia burn, cuts, cyanide poisoning. Excellent “first response” treatment for a sick fish.
  • Internal Issues: Neomycin (e.g. Seachem Neoplex) + Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex) will not get absorbed by the fish’s gastrointestinal tract, thus making both excellent antibiotics to soak in food to treat internal infections (more info).
These are alternative/optional medications to use:
  • Anti-parasitic: Cupramine with a Seachem or Salifert copper test kit. (Hanna HI702 Colorimeter will test this form of copper as well.)
  • Antibiotics: Combining Kanaplex + Furan-2 + Metroplex is an old standby for treating bacterial infections (more options).
  • Antibiotics: Erythromycin is the treatment of choice for eye infections.
  • Antibacterial: Melafix (herbal remedy) is sometimes an effective treatment for mild bacterial infections.
  • Antiseptic: Seachem StressGuard is useful to promote healing of injured fish (wounds).
  • Misc: Epsom salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons) is sometimes useful to relieve swelling, especially "pop eye".
  • Misc: Soak fish food in vitamin supplements such as Selcon, Zoecon and Vita-chem. This will boost a fish’s natural immune system and is particularly useful for clearing viruses such as Lymphocystis.
  • Misc: Soak fish food in garlic to stimulate appetite. Useful for new fish that refuse to eat.
  • Misc: Always keep an ammonia reducer, such as Amquel or Prime, on hand. You never know when you might need it. A reducer can be useful for immediately neutralizing ammonia in the DT or QT (so long as no medications are present, especially copper), or when drip acclimating a new fish that has been in transit a while and ammonia has built up.
More information on the aforementioned medications can be found here: Medications and Treatments
 
im gooing to buy the essentials on here for my 20g QT i bought yesterday. copper power. but whats the copper alternative for wrasses and tangs that are sensitive... so i buy that one as well....
 
also is there a site that carries it all so i dont have to order here order there order there..???
 

Muttley000

New member
also is there a site that carries it all so i dont have to order here order there order there..???
I could not find it all in one place. I got everything but the Spectrogram at Amazon. Marine Depot is my fave online vendor so I got my Hanna and some spare reagents from them.
 
And what's the copper sub that everyone uses for wrasses and tangs and other potential sensitive fish to copper. Since I'll be qt 3 wrasses after my first batch of fish
 
sorry im new to all this. and forcing myself to QT everything for 4 weeks... display is gonna get filled up tuesday and i plan on cycling it for 6 weeks or so.. going slow. so my first 6 fish are gonna be QT for 4 weeks during display cycle..

im ordering right now
Copper Power
Hanna High Range Copper
API furan-2
Thomas Laboratories Fish Bendazole 250mg
API general cure
Ultimate Seachem Aquarium Treatment Bundle Pack - Metroplex, Kanaplex, Focus, Garlic Guard - All In One Aquarium Treatment
bio - spira

thats all i found online.. cant seem to find spectrogram. but this list will help me hopefully keep ick flukes and brooks from my dam tank. im terrified of this.
 
well the kanaplex came in with the kit... but ill cancel the amazon furan-2 right now.. thanks..

for some reason the QT process of my new fish idea. is scarying the hell out of me and im more nervous about the QT and disease than i am about trying to grow a dang SPS.
 
just picked up eheim jager 75w.
20g long QT tank
aquaclear HOB for up to 50g.
air pump
and the meds i think im ready to give it a go. just gotta find a reliable source for the 6 fish lol. no stores around me. might need to drive a hour or so!
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
Thread starter
Location
Wandering Nomad
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for some reason the QT process of my new fish idea. is scarying the hell out of me and im more nervous about the QT and disease than i am about trying to grow a dang SPS.

Quarantining fish takes some getting used to. You're going to make some mistakes in the beginning, but you'll get better & better (and gain confidence) every time you do it.

Have you read this yet? How to Quarantine
 
yes i read it 10 times.. gonna print it and post it next to the tank...one question i ask myself.. when i get the fish. i test the water it comes in so my QT matches the current salinity and temp they arrive in... do i do the copper and prazi 30 days with that salinity or do i slowly raise salinity before i start the 30 days and leave it at my display level? or does it matter? and the oxygen i was worries so i bought a koralia 425gph powerhead and a air pump to run both.. figured i cant have to much oxygen for fish. or can i.

I also just read that flukes or brooks i forget is now surviving with 1.75copper and now recommended to go to 2. on a site my build thread is.????
 

Humblefish

Dr. Fish
Thread starter
Location
Wandering Nomad
Country flag
yes i read it 10 times.. gonna print it and post it next to the tank...one question i ask myself.. when i get the fish. i test the water it comes in so my QT matches the current salinity and temp they arrive in... do i do the copper and prazi 30 days with that salinity or do i slowly raise salinity before i start the 30 days and leave it at my display level? or does it matter? and the oxygen i was worries so i bought a koralia 425gph powerhead and a air pump to run both.. figured i cant have to much oxygen for fish. or can i.

Match your QT to salinity of the bag water. Top off (for evaporation) using saltwater until salinity of your DT has been reached. That way all you have to do is net the fish and transfer into your DT (no acclimation).

So long as your HOB is breaking the surface of the water & Koralia is pointed upwards creating ripples at the surface, you shouldn't have any O2 deficiency in QT.

I also just read that flukes or brooks i forget is now surviving with 1.75copper and now recommended to go to 2. on a site my build thread is.????

Treating @ 2.0 ppm is fine, but IMO Ich/velvet being able to survive 1.75ppm is unproven. I use Copper Power on 50-60 fish at a time, and have never seen it happen.
 
ok perfect thank you. i should be getting the first 6 fish and starting this process. im so glad i followed you here. i have a feeling ill be living on this website ahaha.
 

Jessican

Sheriff
Location
San Antonio, TX
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Hey @Humblefish, have you ever ordered meds from discus.com? This is who I got prazi powder from, and he also sells CP. I wonder if it might be a decent source for those who can't get a prescription and don't want to source from eBay.

 
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