Medications to keep on hand

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Humblefish

HF
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Wandering Nomad
Hey @Humblefish, have you ever ordered meds from discus.com? This is who I got prazi powder from, and he also sells CP. I wonder if it might be a decent source for those who can't get a prescription and don't want to source from eBay.


Can't say I've ever bought from that source. I get 90% of my medications from NFP: https://store.nationalfishpharm.com/items/search

I trust them because a) Most public aquariums I know use NFP b) I've had some of their meds tested and they are usually between 94-96% purity.
 

Jessican

Administrator
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Can't say I've ever bought from that source. I get 90% of my medications from NFP: https://store.nationalfishpharm.com/items/search

I trust them because a) Most public aquariums I know use NFP b) I've had some of their meds tested and they are usually between 94-96% purity.
So this is dredging up an old post, but after the interaction I had with him today, don’t buy meds from discus.com. He sent fenbendazole instead of prazi, which I found out by killing all of my soft corals. I wouldn’t trust meds from this guy.
 

Jessican

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Just about. I’m leaving the leathers to see if they bounce back but I’m not optimistic, they didn’t the first time, either (I used it twice - once in February and once last week before I realized what had happened). The only one that seems unscathed is the cabbage leather. Fortunately I didn’t have a ton of softies, but between the two instances I’ve lost multiple leathers (one had grown to probably 10” across), gorgonians, pipe organs, blue sympodium, and Kenya trees. Nothing exceptionally valuable, and fortunately it didn’t affect any of my nems, but still disappointing.
 
I came across this website offering NFG today. For those that want a smaller amount. I found a few interesting things on the website (being nosey) such as how to make home made prime from seachem safe and such.

 
These are the bare essentials I recommend for quarantining:
  • Anti-parasitic: Copper Power with a Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter (HI702) for testing. Treats Ich & velvet.
  • Anti-parasitic: Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex); treats brook & uronema.
  • Dewormer: Prazipro or API General Cure.
  • Antibiotics: AAP Spectrogram or Nitrofuracin Green Powder
  • Emergency bath treatments: Ruby Reef Rally and Formalin
  • Internal Issues: Seachem Focus can be used with General Cure if internal parasites/intestinal worms are encountered (more info).
These are highly recommended, but not always necessary to have:
  • Anti-parasitic: Chloroquine Phosphate is an alternative to using copper, and treats Ich + Velvet + Brook + Uronema.
  • Dewormer: Fenbendazole can be used to treat prazi resistant worms (internal & external).
  • Bath treatment: Methylene Blue treats ammonia burn, cuts, cyanide poisoning. Excellent “first response” treatment for a sick fish.
  • Internal Issues: Neomycin (e.g. Seachem Neoplex) + Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex) will not get absorbed by the fish’s gastrointestinal tract, thus making both excellent antibiotics to soak in food to treat internal infections (more info).
These are alternative/optional medications to use:
  • Anti-parasitic: Cupramine with a Seachem or Salifert copper test kit. (Hanna HI702 Colorimeter will test this form of copper as well.)
  • Antibiotics: Combining Kanaplex + Furan-2 + Metroplex is an old standby for treating bacterial infections (more options).
  • Antibiotics: Erythromycin is the treatment of choice for eye infections.
  • Antibacterial: Melafix (herbal remedy) is sometimes an effective treatment for mild bacterial infections.
  • Antiseptic: Seachem StressGuard is useful to promote healing of injured fish (wounds).
  • Misc: Epsom salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons) is sometimes useful to relieve swelling, especially "pop eye".
  • Misc: Soak fish food in vitamin supplements such as Selcon, Zoecon and Vita-chem. This will boost a fish’s natural immune system and is particularly useful for clearing viruses such as Lymphocystis.
  • Misc: Soak fish food in garlic to stimulate appetite. Useful for new fish that refuse to eat.
  • Misc: Always keep an ammonia reducer, such as Amquel or Prime, on hand. You never know when you might need it. A reducer can be useful for immediately neutralizing ammonia in the DT or QT (so long as no medications are present, especially copper), or when drip acclimating a new fish that has been in transit a while and ammonia has built up.
More information on the aforementioned medications can be found here: Medications and Treatments
Thank you so very much!!!
 
This is so AWESOME!! Thank you so much for helping a beginner out and taking your time out to help!!
 

Rick Lalonde

New member
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These are the bare essentials I recommend for quarantining:
  • Anti-parasitic: Copper Power with a Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter (HI702) for testing. Treats Ich & velvet.
  • Anti-parasitic: Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex); treats brook & uronema.
  • Dewormer: Prazipro or API General Cure.
  • Antibiotics: AAP Spectrogram or Nitrofuracin Green Powder
  • Emergency bath treatments: Ruby Reef Rally and Formalin
  • Internal Issues: Seachem Focus can be used with General Cure if internal parasites/intestinal worms are encountered (more info).
These are highly recommended, but not always necessary to have:
  • Anti-parasitic: Chloroquine Phosphate is an alternative to using copper, and treats Ich + Velvet + Brook + Uronema.
  • Dewormer: Fenbendazole can be used to treat prazi resistant worms (internal & external).
  • Bath treatment: Methylene Blue treats ammonia burn, cuts, cyanide poisoning. Excellent “first response” treatment for a sick fish.
  • Internal Issues: Neomycin (e.g. Seachem Neoplex) + Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex) will not get absorbed by the fish’s gastrointestinal tract, thus making both excellent antibiotics to soak in food to treat internal infections (more info).
These are alternative/optional medications to use:
  • Anti-parasitic: Cupramine with a Seachem or Salifert copper test kit. (Hanna HI702 Colorimeter will test this form of copper as well.)
  • Antibiotics: Combining Kanaplex + Furan-2 + Metroplex is an old standby for treating bacterial infections (more options).
  • Antibiotics: Erythromycin is the treatment of choice for eye infections.
  • Antibacterial: Melafix (herbal remedy) is sometimes an effective treatment for mild bacterial infections.
  • Antiseptic: Seachem StressGuard is useful to promote healing of injured fish (wounds).
  • Misc: Epsom salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons) is sometimes useful to relieve swelling, especially "pop eye".
  • Misc: Soak fish food in vitamin supplements such as Selcon, Zoecon and Vita-chem. This will boost a fish’s natural immune system and is particularly useful for clearing viruses such as Lymphocystis.
  • Misc: Soak fish food in garlic to stimulate appetite. Useful for new fish that refuse to eat.
  • Misc: Always keep an ammonia reducer, such as Amquel or Prime, on hand. You never know when you might need it. A reducer can be useful for immediately neutralizing ammonia in the DT or QT (so long as no medications are present, especially copper), or when drip acclimating a new fish that has been in transit a while and ammonia has built up.
More information on the aforementioned medications can be found here: Medications and Treatments
Thank you so much 😊 👍🏻👍🏻
 

ctopherl

Well-known member
Country flag
These are the bare essentials I recommend for quarantining:
  • Anti-parasitic: Copper Power with a Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter (HI702) for testing. Treats Ich & velvet.
  • Anti-parasitic: Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex); treats brook & uronema.
  • Dewormer: Prazipro or API General Cure.
  • Antibiotics: AAP Spectrogram or Nitrofuracin Green Powder
  • Emergency bath treatments: Ruby Reef Rally and Formalin
  • Internal Issues: Seachem Focus can be used with General Cure if internal parasites/intestinal worms are encountered (more info).
These are highly recommended, but not always necessary to have:
  • Anti-parasitic: Chloroquine Phosphate is an alternative to using copper, and treats Ich + Velvet + Brook + Uronema.
  • Dewormer: Fenbendazole can be used to treat prazi resistant worms (internal & external).
  • Bath treatment: Methylene Blue treats ammonia burn, cuts, cyanide poisoning. Excellent “first response” treatment for a sick fish.
  • Internal Issues: Neomycin (e.g. Seachem Neoplex) + Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex) will not get absorbed by the fish’s gastrointestinal tract, thus making both excellent antibiotics to soak in food to treat internal infections (more info).
These are alternative/optional medications to use:
  • Anti-parasitic: Cupramine with a Seachem or Salifert copper test kit. (Hanna HI702 Colorimeter will test this form of copper as well.)
  • Antibiotics: Combining Kanaplex + Furan-2 + Metroplex is an old standby for treating bacterial infections (more options).
  • Antibiotics: Erythromycin is the treatment of choice for eye infections.
  • Antibacterial: Melafix (herbal remedy) is sometimes an effective treatment for mild bacterial infections.
  • Antiseptic: Seachem StressGuard is useful to promote healing of injured fish (wounds).
  • Misc: Epsom salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons) is sometimes useful to relieve swelling, especially "pop eye".
  • Misc: Soak fish food in vitamin supplements such as Selcon, Zoecon and Vita-chem. This will boost a fish’s natural immune system and is particularly useful for clearing viruses such as Lymphocystis.
  • Misc: Soak fish food in garlic to stimulate appetite. Useful for new fish that refuse to eat.
  • Misc: Always keep an ammonia reducer, such as Amquel or Prime, on hand. You never know when you might need it. A reducer can be useful for immediately neutralizing ammonia in the DT or QT (so long as no medications are present, especially copper), or when drip acclimating a new fish that has been in transit a while and ammonia has built up.
More information on the aforementioned medications can be found here: Medications and Treatments
What is the recommended treatment application for Melafix? Bath or dose directly to DT based on instructions? Or something else?
 

Tanggang

New member
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Hey everyone new to the hobby. I've read in threads that metronidazole + Kanamycin + Nitrofurazone can you be dosed together for best results. Can we dose Prazipro with these three medications in QT.
 

Dierks

FisHotel Concierge
Quarantined Livestock
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Minnesota
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Hey everyone new to the hobby. I've read in threads that metronidazole + Kanamycin + Nitrofurazone can you be dosed together for best results. Can we dose Prazipro with these three medications in QT.
Adding a 4th medication can be really hard on the fish so we would highly recommend not doing your prazi until you finish with your others. If you are only doing metro and Prazi you can most likely get away with that. It's just a lot for the fishes liver to deal with if we dump all those medications at once.
 

Tanggang

New member
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Adding a 4th medication can be really hard on the fish so we would highly recommend not doing your prazi until you finish with your others. If you are only doing metro and Prazi you can most likely get away with that. It's just a lot for the fishes liver to deal with if we dump all those medications at once.
Oh got it ! Thanks for the advice. So I'll work prazi and metro for the first 14 days, and with copper power and Nitrofurazone for next 14 days.
 
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