Peroxide (H2O2) dosing for parasites in reef tank

[Jessican]

Hello I’m curious for the over night dosing 1.5ml every 15mins for 6 hours that’s for all size tanks or only for your 100 something gallon tank since you’ve listed 1ml per 8 gallons

say for a 30 gallon tank what would the over night dosing be?

That amount was for my size tank. For a 30g, you would want to do the following:

• 1mL per 8 gallons (3.75mL) every 12 hours, just before lights on and just after lights off.
• 0.3mL every 15 minutes for 6 hours overnight (I did mine from 12am-6am)

At some point, you’ll probably need to increase the dose, which would look like this:

• 1mL per 5 gallons (6mL) every 12 hours, just before lights on and just after lights off.
• 0.5mL every 15 minutes for 6 hours overnight (I did mine from 12am-6am)

They are three equal doses
Morning evening and overnight (divided over few hours)

The third dose is actually double a normal dose, divided over 24 doses. So if the morning and night doses are X, the overnight dose is 2X divided by 24.

 

[PizzaPie]

That amount was for my size tank. For a 30g, you would want to do the following:

• 1mL per 8 gallons (3.75mL) every 12 hours, just before lights on and just after lights off.
• 0.3mL every 15 minutes for 6 hours overnight (I did mine from 12am-6am)

At some point, you’ll probably need to increase the dose, which would look like this:

• 1mL per 5 gallons (6mL) every 12 hours, just before lights on and just after lights off.
• 0.5mL every 15 minutes for 6 hours overnight (I did mine from 12am-6am)

The third dose is actually double a normal dose, divided over 24 doses. So if the morning and night doses are X, the overnight dose is 2X divided by 24.

oooo i understand now many thanks.

 

[lkc]

Jessica,
Would peroxide be useful for the treatment of crypt in a bare quarantine tank? If a reef can handle it, would a quarantine tank do as well if the reef tank hasn't been affected. Say you bring home a fish and put him in quarantine for observation and it turns out to have crypt....Like I just did. I'd rather have options instead of copper or chloroquine or TTM. Maybe low salinity with the addition of peroxide?

 

[Jessican]

@lkc sure, you could use it in a QT, but I can’t say for sure that it would be nearly as effective as the tried and true methods. I still don’t know for sure if it eradicates or just controls an outbreak. If you did use it in a QT, I’d still do at least two 150ppm baths 6 days apart in addition to dosing, since we know that can eliminate velvet. We just don’t know if it’s effective for ich.

 

[lkc]

@lkc sure, you could use it in a QT, but I can’t say for sure that it would be nearly as effective as the tried and true methods. I still don’t know for sure if it eradicates or just controls an outbreak. If you did use it in a QT, I’d still do at least two 150ppm baths 6 days apart in addition to dosing, since we know that can eliminate velvet. We just don’t know if it’s effective for ich.

All right then. Sounds good and thank you!

 

[Salmo Si]

Jessica,
Would peroxide be useful for the treatment of crypt in a bare quarantine tank? If a reef can handle it, would a quarantine tank do as well if the reef tank hasn't been affected. Say you bring home a fish and put him in quarantine for observation and it turns out to have crypt....Like I just did. I'd rather have options instead of copper or chloroquine or TTM. Maybe low salinity with the addition of peroxide?

This would be risky in my opinion. You can't be sure that there will be a high enough concentration of peroxide to oxidise the parasites as they emerge and search for a host. It might work, but if you were to try it I would recommend you test the fish with black mollies for a month after the treatment.

 

[lkc]

This would be risky in my opinion. You can't be sure that there will be a high enough concentration of peroxide to oxidise the parasites as they emerge and search for a host. It might work, but if you were to try it I would recommend you test the fish with black mollies for a month after the treatment.

I think I will just continue on the slow road with hyposalinity. But thank you for your advice.

 

[David Willis]

@lkc sure, you could use it in a QT, but I can’t say for sure that it would be nearly as effective as the tried and true methods. I still don’t know for sure if it eradicates or just controls an outbreak. If you did use it in a QT, I’d still do at least two 150ppm baths 6 days apart in addition to dosing, since we know that can eliminate velvet. We just don’t know if it’s effective for ich.

In a QT tank, what concentration and dosage would you use? I am setting up a QT tank, but there will be no bacteria to remove ammonia, but I can do several 50% water changes every day easy in the QT tank. So since I am not worried about killing the bacteria, could you go stronger than 1ml per 5 gallons? Any ideas on what level becomes stressful to the fish over longer than 30 min?

I am thinking about doing 1ml per gal 3 times a day... Is that a good idea, or just stick with the 150ppm bath 6 days apart, and not worry about the 6 days between?

 

[Jessican]

In a QT tank, what concentration and dosage would you use? I am setting up a QT tank, but there will be no bacteria to remove ammonia, but I can do several 50% water changes every day easy in the QT tank. So since I am not worried about killing the bacteria, could you go stronger than 1ml per 5 gallons? Any ideas on what level becomes stressful to the fish over longer than 30 min?

I am thinking about doing 1ml per gal 3 times a day... Is that a good idea, or just stick with the 150ppm bath 6 days apart, and not worry about the 6 days between?

Well, like I said before, you could use it in a QT, but I can’t say for sure that it would be nearly as effective as the tried and true methods. That’s really not what this was meant for - if I was going through the trouble of QTing, I’d personally want something more certain, since I still don’t know for sure if it eradicates or just controls an outbreak.

If you did use it in a QT, and you’re doing the two 150ppm baths 6 days apart, I doubt it would hurt anything to also dose a few times a day. I don’t think anyone here has gone higher than 1mL/1gal, though, which works out to 7.5ppm. I’m sure you could go higher than that in a fish-only QT, I just don’t know how much higher before it starts stressing the fish. I think even the low doses irritates their gills after a while - I still regularly saw flashing at the 1mL/5gal doses, but it stopped completely after I stopped dosing,

 

[David Willis]

Well, like I said before, you could use it in a QT, but I can’t say for sure that it would be nearly as effective as the tried and true methods. That’s really not what this was meant for - if I was going through the trouble of QTing, I’d personally want something more certain, since I still don’t know for sure if it eradicates or just controls an outbreak.

If you did use it in a QT, and you’re doing the two 150ppm baths 6 days apart, I doubt it would hurt anything to also dose a few times a day. I don’t think anyone here has gone higher than 1mL/1gal, though, which works out to 7.5ppm. I’m sure you could go higher than that in a fish-only QT, I just don’t know how much higher before it starts stressing the fish. I think even the low doses irritates their gills after a while - I still regularly saw flashing at the 1mL/5gal doses, but it stopped completely after I stopped dosing,

Thanks! I don't want to cause any extra irritants, so I will just stick with the two 150ppm baths.

 

[David Willis]

I just have to say I think H2O2 dosing is amazing. Since I have started this, I have not had any problems with any diseases. I am also in hyposalinity, and also have a large UV sterilizer. I treated a tank with velvet, ick, uronema, and bacterial infections. I have also added a bunch of new fish by simply performing a 150ppm dip on arrival, and one again in 6 days just before adding to the tank. Even though several fish arrived looking dead floating in the bag, all have recovered, and doing great, and show no signs of anything. I also have fish that are known ich magnets, such as my powder blue tang (which is the healthiest fattest tang I have ever seen, but I thought was going to die before I started with H2O2).

 

[mattzang]

i won't lie after going fallow and coppering all of my fish in 4 different totes/tanks and now moving them all to sterile totes.. peroxide dosing seems real appealing.

do u guys run the UV via your return line? or does it have to be from the tank? this definitely might be my answer to disease in the future..

 

[Jessican]

i won't lie after going fallow and coppering all of my fish in 4 different totes/tanks and now moving them all to sterile totes.. peroxide dosing seems real appealing.

do u guys run the UV via your return line? or does it have to be from the tank? this definitely might be my answer to disease in the future..

Ideally you want all of your water to go through the UV, but I'm pretty sure that the flow rate of our return pumps is too high for proper sterilization. For me at least, plumbing it through the return line (or even onto my manifold) wasn't really an option, so I just run it off of a small Sicce pump in my sump - it draws from the skimmer chamber and dumps into the return pump chamber, so it's hopefully not just recycling the same water through the UV over and over (it has to travel all the way through the tank and back into the sump before it gets picked up again).

 

[David Willis]

I am running all my return water through a Pro max 5 inch 90 watt uv sterilizer. This is rated for a max flow of 5500 gph (2800 gph to kill algae and bacteria), but I run it at about 1500 gph.

 

[David Willis]

I may have a major problem. I woke up this morning to see that my apex optical sensor was saying my sump was low (it was not), so it turned off my return pumps. I don't know when this happened (sometime during the night), but my dosing kept going into my sum all night. So I probably had a very high concentration of h202 in my sump, but not in the tank. So this morning I decided to program my DOS so it will turn off when the return pumps are off.

After doing the programming, I noticed (and I have no idea how this happend) it dosed 200ml of H2O2. When I tested the tank, it is at 10ppm. I am still not certain if the DOS really put 200ml in, or if it was just from the concentrated solution in the sump when the return pumps went back on.

I don't think 10ppm will hurt the fish, but I really hope I did not kill my bacteria off.

Should I add some prime, do a water change, or just leave it...???

 

[Humblefish]

Should I add some prime, do a water change, or just leave it...???

Prime will remove peroxide from the water, so I would dose that just to be safe.

 

[Jessican]

Prime will remove peroxide from the water, so I would dose that just to be safe.

+1, and I’d also add some bottled bacteria.

 

[David Willis]

I actually think it did add 200ml, because I just added a 32oz container of h202 yesterday, and it only has a little left.

I just added prime, and will let it circulate for a minute, and do another test.

Thanks!

 

[David Willis]

Ammonia is still at zero, so I think the bacteria survived..

 

[Flame2hawk]

Do you need to measure the peroxide ppm or just use the recommended dosage of 1ml/5g every 12 then 8 hours? If you do need to, How do you measure peroxide ppm? Is there a tester like Hanna for copper? Do you shut off protein skimmers while treating? Is peroxide dosing effective against bacterial diseases? `thx