Humblefish
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It takes 60ppm chlorine 24 hours to kill Ich tomonts, so no telling how high the peroxide concentration would have to be.
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It takes 60ppm chlorine 24 hours to kill Ich tomonts, so no telling how high the peroxide concentration would have to be.
Question from a newbie on this. Would polyp lab Medic be considered peroxide since the label indicates “peroxide salts”. I’ve been treating with that and UV for 220 DT for 2 weeks and seeing improvement in the initial fish, but seems couple others are showing signs of ich. All eating and acting pretty normal.
Humblefish
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My assumption is that PolypLab Medic is peroxide based, but a) It's expensive b) You don't know what concentration of H2O2 you are dosing.
In @Jessican's original post, she lays out dosage info using 3% H2O2 that anyone can buy from Walmart or a drug store.
I read the dosage. I’m curious as to peroxide levels so I ordered some test strips recommended in this sticky.My assumption is that PolypLab Medic is peroxide based, but a) It's expensive b) You don't know what concentration of H2O2 you are dosing.
In @Jessican's original post, she lays out dosage info using 3% H2O2 that anyone can buy from Walmart or a drug store.
Jessican
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Problem is that “crystallized peroxide salts” can mean a lot of things. I found this article by Practical Fishkeeping where they tried to dig into it, but PolypLab refused to provide an MSDS. That alone would make me wary of using the product; at least I know exactly what’s in a bottle of H2O2.
Jessican
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Considering that peroxide is already an oxidizer, and UV boosts its effectiveness, I’d be very careful adding ozone unless you can monitor the ORP. @baybridgeaquarium can speak more to what happens if you over oxidize, it’s definitely not a good thing.
Humblefish
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Perox-Aid is the only FDA approved peroxide based medication for veterinary use on fish: https://syndel.com/product/35-perox-aid/
More detailed information below:
You can buy it here and they also include a dosing calculator on their website: https://globalaquaculturesupply.com/perox-aid/
Or there's a formula for using Perox-Aid here: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FA/FA15700.pdf
Humblefish
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In the studies done on Amyloodinium (Marine Velvet Disease), single treatments with hydrogen peroxide at concentrations of 75 or 150 mg/L eliminated Amyloodinium sp. trophonts without causing loss of fish: https://www.researchgate.net/public...n_the_Pacific_Threadfin_Polydactylus_sexfilis
drstardust
Well-known member
Yes, but haven't some anecdotal reports of it not doing the trick surfaced? Didn't you mention a friend who failed to eliminate velvet after a 175ppm bath?
Jessican
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You don’t want to be anywhere near that with in-tank dosing, though.
Here’s what I calculated in tank treatments to be, using 3% H2O2:
1mL/10gal (40L) = 0.75ppm
1mL/8gal (30L) = 0.9ppm
1mL/5gal (19L) = 1.59ppm
1mL/3gal (11L) = 2.73ppm
1mL/1gal (4L) = 7.5ppm
I personally only go up to around 1mL/5gal in my tanks, since they’re mixed reefs. Others dosing fish only tanks have gone up to the 1mL/1gal level. It sounds like Medic tests right in this same range, although I personally still don’t like that they’re vague about what’s in it - is it hydrogen peroxide? Sodium peroxide? Barium peroxide? I found a thread where Randy thinks it could be sodium percarbonate, which is a combo of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. Given the cost difference and that the formation is unknown, I’d stick with plain old H2O2 myself.
Humblefish
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Yes, but he's sloppy when it comes to QT (by his own admission). I believe @Dr.Reef has put some fish with velvet through a 175ppm bath, so let's find out if it worked for him.
Thanks for that! I forgot which H2O2 thread I was posting in.
Jessican
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I haven’t tried it on any visibly infected fish, but I can say that a 150ppm bath allowed me to move a fish from my main tank to a completely unprotected tank without bringing over any disease.
No worries, I figured, that’s why I wanted to call it out.Thanks for that! I forgot which H2O2 thread I was posting in.
Thank you. I agree on the Medic. I started to use it as my tank is too large and can't let the tank go fallow for 70 days or so. Have no place for all my fish if I had to do that! I got to reading the Medic paper insert and was intrigued by the ingredient list so I googled peroxide treatment for ich and voila, found this very recent sticky! Thank you for posting your precise info!
One thing I didn't notice is if you (or anyone else who has used H2O2 for treatment) has any experience in ill effects to starfish? If this treatment kills my wifes stars I will be in deep
One thing I didn't notice is if you (or anyone else who has used H2O2 for treatment) has any experience in ill effects to starfish? If this treatment kills my wifes stars I will be in deep
Humblefish
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@Schnell76 Let's see what @Jessican has to say, but urchins/starfish are very sensitive to changing water chemistry IME.
Jessican
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- New Braunfels, TX
I don’t have any starfish, so I can’t say for sure. However, my urchins seem to tolerate it just fine. @SKKY or @Sashaka, did either of you have starfish?Thank you. I agree on the Medic. I started to use it as my tank is too large and can't let the tank go fallow for 70 days or so. Have no place for all my fish if I had to do that! I got to reading the Medic paper insert and was intrigued by the ingredient list so I googled peroxide treatment for ich and voila, found this very recent sticky! Thank you for posting your precise info!
One thing I didn't notice is if you (or anyone else who has used H2O2 for treatment) has any experience in ill effects to starfish? If this treatment kills my wifes stars I will be in deep
The ones in question are quite hardy once settled in. It’s the common stars from KP Aquatics. Bought one after reading his write up and the reviews. Have since bought two more small ones. They are very cool starfish and remind me/my wife of “Peach” from Nemo. My oldest/largest one has been in the tank since started treating with Medic prior to finding this thread.
Jessican
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- New Braunfels, TX
We don’t think the baths will knock out ich, because it burrows deeper under the skin, but the idea of in-tank treatment is mostly to target the free swimmers and keep the population down (hopefully eventually eliminating it, although I can’t say for sure that it does) while the fishes immune systems handle anything that actually attaches to them. It should work as well for ich as it does for anything else as an in-tank treatment in that case.