How To Peroxide (H2O2) dosing for parasites in reef tank

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Rarufu

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Can you just get the PBT out of tank? This is exactly what I did and worked perfectly. I think, the h2o2 method is great compared to "get all fish out and run fallow for milion year", and if only what it takes it to get 1 fish out it is perfect. But probably with the PBT in its not enough. But if the alternative is "all fish and fallow", taking the PBT out was no brainer for me...
I wish I could, but my PBT is not an aggressive eater so netting it at feeding time is impossible. My DT is about 300 gallons so that's impossible too. It seems people with tangs are not having the best results, so maybe for someone else just removing the tangs might work well.
 

Jessican

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Does it keep its program if there’s a power outage or flicker with power? If not what will it dose if it resets?
I believe it has an internal battery in order to retain its programming in case of an outage, but I never specifically tested that.
 

NPA

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Thank you for the detailed answer! I am fighting ich, and I seem to be stuck. After about three weeks now things are not getting worse but also not getting better. I think my PBT keeps the ich going, because the other fish clear up but the PB never does. I can find much info on temperature and cryptocaryon. Without hurting my corals what would be a good temperature?

I’m currently running at a speed to target the ich *slowest gph for my size UV. What I was wondering is many people say the UV makes the H2O2 more effective. Is the speed not important or is there a way maximize the UV / H2O2 potency?

You can absolutely go too slowly through a UV system. Basically, the UV exposure is high enough to kill everything going through it, but the parasite population is outbreeding the amount killed by the UV, so you're never able to reduce population enough to kill it off and are stuck in management. That's why you're want to hit that sweet spot of high enough flow with high enough exposure. Flow too low with higher than necessary exposure is just as bad as Flow too high with not enough exposure.
 

bolek

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I wish I could, but my PBT is not an aggressive eater so netting it at feeding time is impossible. My DT is about 300 gallons so that's impossible too. It seems people with tangs are not having the best results, so maybe for someone else just removing the tangs might work well.
I have similar setup - but was super easy to get him with the fish trap. Contrary to the Hawkfish I am trying to lure into trap for weeks, the tangs go there casually if the food is there (easiest for me is just to stick some nori there and there is often 3 or 4 tangs squeezed in the trap:)
 

bolek

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Does it keep its program if there’s a power outage or flicker with power? If not what will it dose if it resets?
I have also Jebao, and turned it off and it a) remembers everything , programming and time b) does not make chaos with back-dosing - putting extra volume of liquid into tank during the off hours which some "inteligent" dosers do and it could then kill everything with big dose... So Jebao is safe from this perspective and I had no issue during my 6+ weeks night dosing
 

Jgoal55

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well, I thought I had ick a long time ago on my Naso and it turns out that it likely wasn’t. Spot was too big for ick and it was only one (likely lympho). Fell off three days later and never saw anything again until this morning. Except this time, I’m convinced it’s ick. So, it’s H202 dosing time.

Honestly, I’m a good candidate for it as I have almost no corals in the tank. The few I do have I can I can remove easily if things go south.

I do have RBTAs which are all on an island rock and can also be removed easily.

So my questions are these:

1) should I remove all corals and nems and go hypo instead?

2) if not and I go H202, should I remove the nems at least? I know it’s not a must, but is it safer?

the worst part of all this is that everything was looking so great. Just a week ago, i was commenting to a buddy how well HTTM had worked. In fact, 3 days ago I just received my final two tangs that are currently in HTTM (gem and white tail) which I ordered prior to noticing ick.

I guess I jinxed it!

I’m not sure what to do with the gem and white tail once they’re done in HTTM.

Since I’m going to be dosing DT with H202, should I introduce them into the DT even though I know ick is present? Or should I try to set up a hospital tank from scratch with a rapid cycle (though I can’t take anything from my DT to seed).

I’m not sure what to do with the gem and white tail once they’re done in HTTM.

last question is this:

Since I’m going to be dosing DT with H202, should I introduce them into the DT even though I know ick is present? Or should I try to set up a hospital tank from scratch with a rapid MB7 cycle (even though I can’t take anything from my DT to seed)?
 
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Flame2hawk

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well, I thought I had ick a long time ago on my Naso and it turns out that it likely wasn’t. Spot was too big for ick and it was only one (likely lympho). Fell off three days later and never saw anything again until this morning. Except this time, I’m convinced it’s ick. So, it’s H202 dosing time.

Honestly, I’m a good candidate for it as I have almost no corals in the tank. The few I do have I can I can remove easily if things go south.

I do have RBTAs which are all on an island rock and can also be removed easily.

So my questions are these:

1) should I remove all corals and nems and go hypo instead?

2) if not and I go H202, should I remove the nems at least? I know it’s not a must, but is it safer?

the worst part of all this is that everything was looking so great. Just a week ago, i was commenting to a buddy how well HTTM had worked. In fact, 3 days ago I just received my final two tangs that are currently in HTTM (gem and white tail) which I ordered prior to noticing ick.

I guess I jinxed it!

I’m not sure what to do with the gem and white tail once they’re done in HTTM.

Since I’m going to be dosing DT with H202, should I introduce them into the DT even though I know ick is present? Or should I try to set up a hospital tank from scratch with a rapid cycle (though I can’t take anything from my DT to seed).

I’m not sure what to do with the gem and white tail once they’re done in HTTM.

last question is this:

Since I’m going to be dosing DT with H202, should I introduce them into the DT even though I know ick is present? Or should I try to set up a hospital tank from scratch with a rapid MB7 cycle (even though I can’t take anything from my DT to seed)?
This thread has gotten long and my recent experience is that its taking quite a bit of time for folks to respond. MAy I suggest you start a new thread as you’re asking broader questions about alternative treatments outside of peroxide dosing. I’m interested in hearing responses to your questions as well.
 

Jessican

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Once you start dosing, it’s better to start a thread specific to your tank so that it’s easier to keep track of what you’re treating, where you are in the process, etc. It’s hard to keep up with all the different situations in this thread. :) I think using this thread is fine for initial questions, though.

To answer your questions, I’ve never done hypo so I can’t really advise on that. If you’re certain it’s ich then it may be a good path, but it won’t work for velvet.

I wouldn’t personally remove the nems, I didn’t see any lasting issues with the RBTAs in my tank. Up to you, though.

It’s risky to introduce new fish when you have an active outbreak, especially something susceptible like tangs. I’d ideally want to at least get to the point with the dosing that the existing fish no longer have spots. At a minimum, get to the overnight dosing phase before you add new fish so that they’re as protected as possible.
 

Jgoal55

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Thanks for the reply. I’ll start a thread. I’m also going to try to do before and after ICPs.

not the answer I wanted to hear on adding fish, but I figured as much. It’s going to be pretty difficult for me to set up a temp QT big enough for two 4-5” tangs, but I’ll see what I can whip up. If not, I may just have to risk it as all fish in the DT are otherwise healthy and eating very well.

I have another question on carbon dosing…as a virtually FOWLR tank, my nitrates hover around 40. As I prep for corals, I’ve been wanting to begin dosing TM Bacto-balance to reduce nutrients. Can I do this while dosing H2O2?
 

Jessican

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I’m not sure what’s in bacto-balance, so I would be cautious, as many things can react with peroxide. At best, one may render the other ineffective; at worst, one may make the other toxic. As peroxide helps to break down waste, you may find that your nitrates come down on their own during dosing, so I would just start with the dosing first.
 

Wolverine

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Jessican, I noticed you lost a lot of snails and cleaner shrimp, I think 2 out of 3 on the shrimp. My question is have you added any inverts and lost any doing the maintenance dose of 3 times a day when adding new fish? Do you think you lost them original because of the length of time or maybe the over nite dosing? Just trying to figure out how harmful to the inverts dosing theee times a day for a month adding new fish. @Jessican
 

Jessican

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I think some of that had to do with the accidental fenbendazole, not the peroxide. IME, shrimp seem to be the most sensitive, particularly if they molt during dosing. Snails seem to handle the maintenance dosing just fine.
 

Jgoal55

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Thank you @Jessican. One final thing I should mention, I’m battling a pretty heavy diatom bloom after having successfully treated for Dino’s. Any thing to worry about with diatom die off?
 

Jessican

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Thank you @Jessican. One final thing I should mention, I’m battling a pretty heavy diatom bloom after having successfully treated for Dino’s. Any thing to worry about with diatom die off?
Not that I’m aware of, I don’t think diatoms are toxic at all. @35ppt can probably tell us for sure.
 

35ppt

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Not that I’m aware of, I don’t think diatoms are toxic at all. @35ppt can probably tell us for sure.
There are some diatoms (such as Pseudo-nitzschia) that produce toxins (domoic acid) but I've not really seen them cause issues in aquaria. These diatoms have been shown to be a source of shellfish poisoning. If you are concerned you could run carbon and/or do some water changes as they die off.
 
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