How To Quarantine

Hi all - I am setting up my first QT in anticipation of my next tank coming in a couple weeks and was looking for some guidance with this. I bought a whole setup for $65 from Petsmart for a 29g 30” tank, HOB, heater, and light. I put a Koralia 240 at the top for increased surface agitation, seeded with 4oz of biospira and added a bag of ceramic rings from the current tank (will remove these before the fish come). I removed all the contents of the HOB filter and loaded it up with Matrix. I have an internal media reactor, would this be beneficial to add for the Matrix, carbon, etc? Would it be good to get a used HOB protein skimmer?

For the new tank, I plan to add my current clowns and Midas Blenny that are in the old tank and would like to get some wrasses, tangs, a goby, a couple fire fish, and a royal gramma. I am still trying to figure out the timing and order given the whole shortage of fish we are experiencing. That said, I have found a nice purple tang that a local reefer has had for a year that I plan to pick up next week as this tank gets cycled. Will this be troublesome adding this early on and can I add anything else with it during the first QT batch (other tangs would be a baby hippo and a yellow eyed kole tang)? Just seems like a good healthy fish that’s a bit harder to find so hard to pass it up.

Lastly, medication. Given that some of these fish have certain medication sensitivities, how do you balance QTing some of these together? One of the local reefers who has 1,500 gallons worth of tanks just recommended QTing with Polylabs Medic for 10-14 days and then watching for two-four weeks. I haven’t seen this discussed anywhere but wanted thoughts?
 

Humblefish

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@Letterkenny I wouldn’t mess with the internal media reactor or a HOB skimmer. My philosophy is keep the QT as simple as possible.

I personally wouldn’t add any tangs until the end to mitigate aggression towards other fish. Meaning, let smaller/non-aggressive species get established ahead of angels & tangs.

As far as medications are concerned, I primary QT using Copper Power + API General Cure. There are other medications listed there: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/medications-to-keep-on-hand.77/
 
@Letterkenny I wouldn’t mess with the internal media reactor or a HOB skimmer. My philosophy is keep the QT as simple as possible.

I personally wouldn’t add any tangs until the end to mitigate aggression towards other fish. Meaning, let smaller/non-aggressive species get established ahead of angels & tangs.

As far as medications are concerned, I primary QT using Copper Power + API General Cure. There are other medications listed there: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/medications-to-keep-on-hand.77/
Thanks for the reply. I have read many of your threads and really appreciate the informed feedback. Two things I didn’t see answers to based on the searching I did do (so likely could have missed it) is what level of copper is too much and how often do you test it?
 
So I have read this whole thread now and several others by you on R2R and the focus on a lot of the QT methods seems to assume a fish is purchased online. Would you do anything different if the fish was coming from a LFS or a local reefer? I’m picking up a purple tang next week from a local reefer that has had him for over a year. Just curious if you would take a different approach here or if you got a fish from a LFS that has been there for several weeks.
 

Humblefish

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Navarre, FL
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Thanks. Any difference in using Copper Power vs Cupramine or ease of use? If I were to also QT a wrasse with the tang, any other changes?
I personally prefer Copper Power because it has a wider therapeutic range (1.5-2.5 ppm) which makes it easier to test.

So I have read this whole thread now and several others by you on R2R and the focus on a lot of the QT methods seems to assume a fish is purchased online. Would you do anything different if the fish was coming from a LFS or a local reefer? I’m picking up a purple tang next week from a local reefer that has had him for over a year. Just curious if you would take a different approach here or if you got a fish from a LFS that has been there for several weeks.
I personally would apply chemoprophylaxis regardless of source. If you think the fish is clean then 1 month in observation with black mollies would confirm this: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/black-molly-quarantine.55/

^^ The advantage of "Black Molly QT" is no drugs/chemicals are used unless symptoms present themselves.
 

wmchaseb

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Great, let me summerize again for final version.

Day 1- Drop fish into 1.0 Copper Power (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon only)
Day 2- Raise Copper Power to 1.35 (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon only)
Day 3 - Raise Copper Power to 1.70 (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon only)
Day 4 - Raise Copper Power to 2.0 (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon only)
Day 6 - dose Metro into water column -- Start Feeding API GC Lased food (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon + API GC + Seachem Focus)
Day 8 - dose API GC into water column (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon + API GC + Seachem Focus)
Day 10 - dose Metro into water column (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon + API GC + Seachem Focus)
Day 12 - dose Metro into water column (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon + API GC + Seachem Focus)
Day 14 - dose API GC into water column (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon + API GC + Seachem Focus). It is the last day to dose API GC.
Day 16 - dose Metro into water column (feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon + API GC + Seachem Focus). It is the last day to dose Metro.
Day 17 to Day 20- Maintain Copper Power at 2.0 PPM and feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon + API GC + Seachem Focus. It is 2 weeks for feeding food soaked in Medication per Humble Fish's recommendation.
Day 20 to Day 29- Maintain Copper Power at 2.0 PPM and feed 1-2/day with Food soaked with Selcon only.
Day 30 - Pull out of 100 % copper by Cuprisorb and/or large water change.
Day 31- 2 weeks observation start.

After 2 weeks of observation, if nothing's wrong, fishes could be introduced to DT without drip acclimation if same temp + salinity.
I have read this thread multiple times and this seems to be the correct method for 1 tank qt. Can I get a verification on this. Thanks for this thread it is a life saver!
 
Am I missing anything? It’s a 20gL (30”) that I will be putting a 3” purple tang in for QT. I have API GC in the mail and will start the CP dosing in a few days once I get my Hanna Copper Test Kit in. @Humblefish would you recommend dosing based off of the bottle to 1PPM (looks like about 14 ml for a 20g tank) before getting the Hanna Copper Test in?
 

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I have my first guest in the QT, a purple tang that’s about 4” in length. Two questions: 1) are those 4” elbows going to be big enough? 2) I want to add a blue tang and know it’s better to add tangs together. Is this 20gL (30”) big enough for this purple and a ~1” baby blue or should I get seperate QTs or a larger QT?
 

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@Letterkenny

1) Yes

2) Two problems with quarantining them together: a) You've already added the Purple, so he will likely be aggressive towards any new comers b) The Blue Tang should be closer in size to the Purple so he can hold his own with him.
Okay thanks - will hold off from adding anything with the purple. Before I got him today, I was told he was a lot smaller but my LFS was literally asking double so can’t complain. Is there anything else I should have on hand, such as Prime? Also, I thought I read you posting somewhere that you do not like feeding nori in a QT. Anything in specific you can recommend for a Tang and separate
Foods that I can lease with GC and selcor?
 
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Humblefish

Dr. Fish
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Navarre, FL
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Okay thanks - will hold off from adding anything with the purple. Before I got him today, I was told he was a lot smaller but my LFS was literally asking double so can’t complain. Is there anything else I should have on hand, such as Prime? Also, I thought I read you posting somewhere that you do not like feeding nori in a QT. Anything in specific you can recommend for a Tang and separate
Foods that I can lease with GC and selcor?
You can feed nori, but don't leave it in there too long if he's not eating it. Because it will just disintegrate and foul up the tank. Most tangs will eat frozen (e.g. brine, mysis, LRS) and even pellets, and you can food soak GC in either of those.
 
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