Show Off ReefBeta's 180 Acropora focus build

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I think $100 per head is what I willing to pay for a good one. $200 top for a really fancy one. But that's quite unrealistic in the current market.
There are some good ones out there for less than 200.

There are some really cool ones but I would never spend this kind of money on a coral. I will wait a few years for the office to go down.

20220129_210800.jpg
 

ReefBeta

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There are some good ones out there for less than 200.

There are some really cool ones but I would never spend this kind of money on a coral. I will wait a few years for the office to go down.

View attachment 56124
I have one that looks basically the same. Maybe not the same, it's just an indo shipment. I'm not into torch nuisance enough to tell the different. It's close enough that I don't need another of. I think I got that for $150 or something.
 

ReefBeta

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That's a steal, the one in the picture is $800. If I could find that for 150 I would buy it in a heartbeat.
Holly molly. This is the one I have. When I bought it, it had one polyp, showing sign to start splitting to three. Now I think it has 5.
PXL_20220130_031821407.jpg

Maybe some pros can tell how the two are different, I can't ...
 

ReefBeta

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If you decide to frag off a head key me know. 😊
I do have a frag of it. Did it when I got it, unintentionally. When I tried to cut it off the frag plug, I cracked it's skeleton from the middle. I tried my best to whole the thing together and glue it on the epoxy. But the there one piece fell completely off, with couple tentacle on it. I glued it on a frag plug, and put it in the 42G. A year later it grown into a nice torch head. It now sits in the frag system.
 

ReefBeta

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Thinking about dosing nitrate again, as it actually reached zero, and phosphate is still high. First I was thinking about potassium nitrate, which also takes care of potassium. Then I did some calculations. The ratio between potassium and nitrate is about 2/3. So if I'm adding 1 ppm nitrate a day, I will be adding 2 ppm potassium every 3 days. Then I checked my note about doing it couple pages back, my plan was doing 3 ppm per month... Yeah I'm gonna stick with sodium nitrate instead.
 

region.reef

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Just joined Humble.fish to follow your thread from R2R. Very interested in the your method of mounting the Radions as I also have the same Planet Aquarium Canopy and I'm trying to figure out how to mount my radions as well. Where did you get the hardware to do that?? Such a cheaper/better idea than cutting into the stand.
 

ReefBeta

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Just joined Humble.fish to follow your thread from R2R. Very interested in the your method of mounting the Radions as I also have the same Planet Aquarium Canopy and I'm trying to figure out how to mount my radions as well. Where did you get the hardware to do that?? Such a cheaper/better idea than cutting into the stand.
Prime-Line 9121407 Machine Screws, Metric, Flat Head, Phillips Drive, M5-0.8 X 50MM, Grade A2-70 Stainless Steel, 10-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5V2MDW/?tag=humblefish-20

And a drill and drill bit. Also a countersink drill bit, so that the screw is flush with the top.
 

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ReefBeta

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Thanks I'll be ordering these. What did you use for spacers in this picture?
View attachment 56674
It's literally called spacer, like this Swpeet 150Pcs Nylon Round Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit, Nylon PA66 Plastic Standoff OD 11mm and ID 6.2mm Length 3mm 4mm 5mm 8mm 10mm 12mm 15mm 18mm 20mm 25mm for M6 Screws Prototyping: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific.

But I didn't use them anymore, found no need to. Now I have switched up every single one of the lights. All but the first one I put it back without the spacer. As long as the screw are the same length, they will sit perfectly straight.

Before you ask why I switching them out, I got everyone of them replaced under warranty, because they become difficult to connect to. At some point, the light will start to show up as a new device on the app, with a different serial number. My suspicious is the moisture inside the canopy is too high, plus I had the MP40 up too high for a while and causing too much splash, that cause some chip inside to corrode. But EcoTech is awesome as always and got them all replaced and they are now working nicely once again. I do plan to cut couple big holes on top to put couple 120mm fan to pull the hot and moisture air out of the canopy. Hopefully it will prevent it happen again. The inside of the canopy can get up to 95F. The blower fan I have there now wasn't doing enough.
 

region.reef

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It's literally called spacer, like this Swpeet 150Pcs Nylon Round Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit, Nylon PA66 Plastic Standoff OD 11mm and ID 6.2mm Length 3mm 4mm 5mm 8mm 10mm 12mm 15mm 18mm 20mm 25mm for M6 Screws Prototyping: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific.

But I didn't use them anymore, found no need to. Now I have switched up every single one of the lights. All but the first one I put it back without the spacer. As long as the screw are the same length, they will sit perfectly straight.

Before you ask why I switching them out, I got everyone of them replaced under warranty, because they become difficult to connect to. At some point, the light will start to show up as a new device on the app, with a different serial number. My suspicious is the moisture inside the canopy is too high, plus I had the MP40 up too high for a while and causing too much splash, that cause some chip inside to corrode. But EcoTech is awesome as always and got them all replaced and they are now working nicely once again. I do plan to cut couple big holes on top to put couple 120mm fan to pull the hot and moisture air out of the canopy. Hopefully it will prevent it happen again. The inside of the canopy can get up to 95F. The blower fan I have there now wasn't doing enough.


Thanks for being so informative. Your post came to me as a Godsend this morning as I've been mulling around the best way to mount these radions in that exact canopy. So good to know I won't need those spacers.
 
Thanks for being so informative. Your post came to me as a Godsend this morning as I've been mulling around the best way to mount these radions in that exact canopy. So good to know I won't need those spacers.
We better see a tank thread here soon ;) haha welcome mate!
 

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Screenshot_20220206-201157.png

I think I finally did it. The pH of the tank in the pass two days are mostly flat. That's after debugging both the kalk doser and CO2 scrubber. Both of them are now only runs at night, and calcium reactor only during the day. So basically:

pH raise from kalk + pH raise from CO2 scrubber = pH raise from light - pH drop from calcium reactor

Never thought it's possible, the perfect balance.
 

drawman

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View attachment 57150
I think I finally did it. The pH of the tank in the pass two days are mostly flat. That's after debugging both the kalk doser and CO2 scrubber. Both of them are now only runs at night, and calcium reactor only during the day. So basically:

pH raise from kalk + pH raise from CO2 scrubber = pH raise from light - pH drop from calcium reactor

Never thought it's possible, the perfect balance.
Nice work!
 

ReefBeta

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This Vibrant thing going on made me think about my 42G tank. I definitely used vibrant before. It didn't crash anything, but I don't remember if it helped either. I don't actually remember what I was using for, just remember I used it before.
But I had went through some tough time with that tank. For the first year of it, I can't keep any chalice alive in that tank. Acropora were also iffy a lot. I think I bought a dozen or so, and had like 5 survived to this day. Once I tested the water and found aluminum over 200. I concluded to myself that it was the cause, and it was leaking from the bio media. So I removed all the bio media. To this day, the tank thrives with good size colonies of both acropora and chalice. I thought I solved it.
But now I think of it, another thing happen. 6 months after the tank started, I moved to my new house. With the move, I basically did two 100% water change. So what if, the actual reason for the corals suffering was the vibrant I used on it before? And the thorough water change removed all the trace of it for good. After the move, I moved the tank one more time to the other corner of the room, so again another almost 100% water change. I also added sand to the tank. I think the tank started to better since. To be honest I don't remember the exact timeline. But if I remember it right, I could have been wrong with the actual cause of the problem of that tank. This really shows how unreliable of that reasoning of "I did this thing A, and a problem started/fixed, thus A is the cause/cute". Things can caught up to you for after so many months that it's almost impossible to trace back.
The bio media is still leaking aluminum though, I had follow up test to confirm that. Just aluminum might not be as harmful as I thought it was.
 

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Since I turned up the light like a months ago, I have been losing some frags here and there. Most of the things that went away were the ones that haven't show much growth. Some others that doing good were showing noticable faster growth. So it's like everything get faster with higher light, growing and dying.

But there are two more significant RTN, basically gone in a day or two.
PXL_20220305_175555197.jpg

PXL_20220308_174829883.MP.jpg

The first one I managed to save same. The second one is gone too fast to save any. Have no idea why. Maybe bacteria related? Maybe the cyano? I think most of the SPS guru I know about (like sanjay, and a local guy I buy most of my acropora from) have colonies poof with no reason whatsoever. So I guess I just joined the party 😅. I do think I will start fragging some colonies that I love the most, just in case.
 
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