Other Smiddy's Reef 360 Peninsula

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rds85

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Got some locally donated tester sticks and some other SPS. The gorg is something I wanted to try. It is NPS. Everything is in the coral QT/frag tank, no fish allowed. Three sets of dips and observational period. Then DT.
Some of these weeks photos:
Tester SPS 1.JPG


FTS 3.JPG


FTS 4.JPG


Fish Room 35.JPG
 

rds85

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Update:

I received another orphex led bar as a gift. now with that added in, I do not have any more room for additional lighting. There seems to be no real shadowing anymore, which is great!

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Everything seems to be alive a doing well.

Biggest improvement I have seen on livestock when it comes to fish is feeding fresh/frozen once clams from the market. I truly believe the fresh clams has what made my moorish idol ( had for two months now and forgot to mention him in the thread) turn into a fat happy energetic fish. The fresh clams have also seemed to enhance the coloration of my regal angel, randals and Bimac anthias.
I have added a small Powder Blue Tang, pearly head jawfish (@Wen i got this because of your five, awesome fish), flame hawkfish, sunburst anthia, cleaner wrasse, cleaner shrimp, and some captive bred urchins.

All SPS are going excellent and cannot complain about growth at all.

My main issue this year and currently working on is an ulva outbreak in my DT. Best photo captured when lights are off :
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Did it get out of control: yes
Did it hurt any livestock: No
Do the tangs and urchins eat it?: Yes but there is to much for them to handle
Do I mainly remove it every two days?: Yes and it does not grow back where it has been removed from the rock
Did it affect the water chemistry?: Yes it dropped my nutrients really low and my walt disney and two other frags are pale because I lengthens my fuge photo period to help prevent DT growth.
Have I debated H202?: Yes a lot. with the sps doing so well, even had a few triple in size i did not want to take the risk and would rather manual remove versus spot treat areas as it doesn’t grow back and I would be right there to manually remove it. Yes it will take longer to do so, but the urchins and tangs will be able to take control with help of me.
With Covid still around, no rush to have it eradicated fast as no one comes to see it
 

rds85

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Just in case I don’t get time this weekend ( last trip skiing for the season) Here are some Iphone photos using the orphex phone lens attachment.

Tank will be be one year at the beginning of next month.

Battling some dinos in the front of the tank. Slowly working through that. It is irritating some of the acros. Only lost one acro in the last 7-8months.
When I get the nutrients to high to battle them, my Ulva will take off to where my urchins and tangs cannot keep up. Working on getting a mag foxface to push it over the edge.

Tons of new fish and a few more sticks ( stick photos need the good camera, this weekend).
New ish Fish since last update:
Watanabei angels, Pearly head jawfish, Evansi anthias, midas blenny, flame hawkfish, moorish idol
More on the way:
Magnificent foxface, yellow coris, radiant,
Acros:
Fancy named ones from another r2r member (Doug’s sticks are stellar) and maricultured pieces. mainly tenuis and millis.
Added some gorgs as well.
Added a wild sponge in that is growing in my fuge in hopes to grow it out and feed to the idol and angels.
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rds85

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What are your chemistry, dosing and parameters like?
Currently since I am working on some dino patches:
35ppt
CaRx reactor
Carbon
ALk: 8.5-9.1dkh
Cal: 400ish rarely check due to CaRx
Mag: 1200-1300
No3: 5ppm
Po4: 0.06ppm
Don't check traces with hobby grade test kits, haven't done a ICP in a time window that is relevant
Use Acropower and mess around with KZ blue bottles pretty regularly.
 

rds85

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have you had any issues getting corals through fishless qt? i just started my first batch of corals in one. what's your general protocol in there

Depends on the coral, coral base, origination, purchase place. and MOST of all willingness in regards risk.
The purpose is for fish diseases as well as coral pests.
I have only SPS in my tank minus a few gorgs and 1 chalice.
So in general I do the following:
1) Inspection before purchase
2) Acclimate to Coral QT tank ( basically same water from DT, but not directly plumbed together)
2) Dip the coral in CoralRX
3) Remove all plugs, discs, bases, dead areas, etc no matter what. Essentially creating a fresh cut with only living tissue.
4) Set in QT Tank for a few hours. Observe for pests or anything I missed.
5) Some fresh cut go into the DT the next day or not for 76 days depends on what I see and where it came from. This is under my willingness of risk for each coral. I am having a brain fart currently and do not remember if fish diseases can a encyst on living acropora tissue.

The process would be very different for LPS and softies: Dip, inspect, dip, inspect, wait 76 days minimal to no expectations.

My coral QT setup:
Heater
Radion XR15 Gen 4 pro
return pump
powerhead
filter sponge
carbon
one piece of live rock
Auto water change system from DT
 
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