Tank Transfer Method (all versions)

[Humblefish]

The table and video below are meant to show/explain the differences between the 3 different versions of Tank Transfer Method. If you are completely unfamiliar with TTM, please read more detailed information found in the links below:

Standard TTM

Velvet TTM

Hybrid TTM

​

How to perform a H2O2 bath: Hydrogen Peroxide

How to perform a Formalin bath: Formalin

​

 

[Humblefish]

^^ Hey everyone, what do you think of the above?

Does it eliminate some of the confusion regarding the different versions of TTM? Anything I could do to improve upon what I wrote??

TIA

 

[mattzang]

looks good to me

 

[Alcatraz]

Looks fine

 

[Humblefish]

 

[Dierks]

As crazy as it is.... I have never done any TTM

 

[HamFam Reef]

During and for the sole purpose of any of the three TTMs, can saltwater be used that was made from dechlorinated tap water instead of RO/DI water?

 

[Dierks]

During and for the sole purpose of any of the three TTMs, can saltwater be used that was made from dechlorinated tap water instead of RO/DI water?

As long as you know its clean...

Personally I use my waste water from my RODI unit so they are run through the sediment filter and the carbon block. Works just fine... BUT make sure with your local water authority you don't have any really nasty things in your water before not using the filtered water.

 

[Brandon252820]

With the hybrid ttm, woukdnt you still have to transfer every 36 hours for the first 4 transfers for velvet?

 

[Jessican]

With the hybrid ttm, woukdnt you still have to transfer every 36 hours for the first 4 transfers for velvet?

No, the two peroxide baths are what eliminate velvet with HTTM.

 

[underthereef]

Would it be okay to still do a hydrogen peroxide bath between transfers if I do the velvet TTM? And also dose prazi and metro afterwards in the new transfer tank? Just want to make sure they don’t need a certain amount of time between baths or that it’s not too hard on them to still dose prazi and metro after. Or would you recommend not doing h2o2 if I am already taking the above steps?

 

[Humblefish]

Would it be okay to still do a hydrogen peroxide bath between transfers if I do the velvet TTM?

Yes

And also dose prazi and metro afterwards in the new transfer tank?

Yes

Or would you recommend not doing h2o2 if I am already taking the above steps?

The 2x H2O2 baths are stil useful for eliminating Brooklynella, even if you are doing 36 hour transfers for velvet.

 

[kelso]

Re

^^ Hey everyone, what do you think of the above?

Does it eliminate some of the confusion regarding the different versions of TTM? Anything I could do to improve upon what I wrote??

TIA

Read that stringy poop is an indication of intestinal worms or some type of internal parasite I think. Either way, I know it needs to be addressed. In the hybrid ttm method, Will the two h2o2 baths take care of this or do I need to add an additional step? Or do the transfer’s handle it

 

[Humblefish]

Re

Read that stringy poop is an indication of intestinal worms or some type of internal parasite I think. Either way, I know it needs to be addressed. In the hybrid ttm method, Will the two h2o2 baths take care of this or do I need to add an additional step? Or do the transfer’s handle it

H2O2 baths will NOT eliminate intestinal worms or parasites (or anything that is wrong internally with a fish.)

However, I would look for other (additional) symptoms before settling on a diagnosis:

1. Intestinal worms
Symptoms: White stringy feces, pinched stomach, fish has faded coloration, fish eats voraciously but still seems to be losing weight.
Treatment of choice: Praziquantel
Alternative treatments: Fenbendazole, Levamisole, Piperazine

2. Internal parasites/flagellates
Symptoms: White stringy feces, pinched stomach, fish has faded coloration, fish eats voraciously but still seems to be losing weight. Flagellates are more virulent than worms, and thus can kill faster.
Treatment of choice: Metronidazole
Alternative treatments: Albendazole, Flubendazole and Mebendazole all show promise. (More treatment options for internal parasites)

 

[Humblefish]

White stringy poop, in and of itself, can just mean intestinal irritation. Which can be caused by improper diet, change in foods, medications or toxins (chemicals) passing through the GI tract, stress, etc. etc.

 

[kelso]

Can you please give a detailed description of exactly what needs to take place for the sanitation / cleaning process of equipment and such between transfers? What will guarantee success? bleach? wiping everything down? rinsing? Does making sure everything is completely dry kill them? On my last transfer, I took everything to the kitchen sink, poured vinegar into the tank, then scrubbed all the silicone seams and the glass and rinsed with scolding hot water. Did the same with the heater, and all the other parts as well, taking the rubber suction cups off the plastic clips etc. then let it dry. At this point is it completely safe to re-use? Would rubbing alcohol kill everything upon contact? Just trying to figure out a safe repeatable routine. Using 10 gallon tanks and only have one spare / extra. I know its said that you need 2 of everything to prevent cross contamination. Trying to figure out when I'll know it's 100% safe to re-use. I guess my direct question is how long can a trophont live outside of water and what will kill it? Read in the posted video that the air drying part is the part that sterilizes. If I fail, I think this will be my weak link and somehow cross contaminate.

 

[Humblefish]

@kelso I prefer to wipe everything down/out using vinegar soaked rags, rinse thoroughly, and then use a fan to blow dry everything for 3 days. If you encounter anything "crusty" on tank or equipment (e.g. biofilm), that can usually be removed by using rubbing alcohol.

You can also use bleach: How To - Sterilize + reseed any tank

But I recommend a thorough rinsing and 3 days drying time afterwards. Also keep in mind that bleach won't eliminate biofilm, so you will still need to apply rubbing alcohol to remove that.

 

[kelso]

@kelso I prefer to wipe everything down/out using vinegar soaked rags, rinse thoroughly, and then use a fan to blow dry everything for 3 days. If you encounter anything "crusty" on tank or equipment (e.g. biofilm), that can usually be removed by using rubbing alcohol.

You can also use bleach: How To - Sterilize + reseed any tank

But I recommend a thorough rinsing and 3 days drying time afterwards. Also keep in mind that bleach won't eliminate biofilm, so you will still need to apply rubbing alcohol to remove that.

Thanks for the reply! I was on the fence whether or not I needed a forth or even a fifth 10 gallon tank, heater. (got a bunch of air line / stones / and ammonia alert badges. I have not encountered any detectible ammonia levels yet with the badge at the end of day 3 and I'm working on what will be my 5th or 6th transfer in total. If I continue to feed lightly twice a day as I have been, is it fairly safe to do away with the ammonia stop badges and just save the ones I have left if I end up qt'ing multiple or bigger fish in the future? or do you still use a new one every time regardless? I could always just test the water if in doubt, but the cost of the badges could add up. (or can they be re-used?) but this definitely clears it up for me if I want to have more than one tank qt'ing at a time. Unfortunately, I brought home a sailfin tang half way through the ttm on 2 clowns and I'm fairly certain that I have cross-contaminated their tanks on the last swap. I'm pretty sure the tang had ich. The clowns were close to the end. But that's ok. No harm in creating good habits and doing it right, and the fish are happy as far as I can tell. I can see how the copper method is easier. Going through a lot of water.

 

[Humblefish]

is it fairly safe to do away with the ammonia stop badges and just save the ones I have left if I end up qt'ing multiple or bigger fish in the future? or do you still use a new one every time regardless? I could always just test the water if in doubt, but the cost of the badges could add up. (or can they be re-used?)

All you can do with the badges is let them completely dry out before reusing. I was told by Seachem that the ammonia badge will continue to work (up to 1 year) after it has been rehydrated, but to expect a delay of up to 24 hours before it begins detecting ammonia again. The only alternative is to store the badge in RODI, but I can't say with any certainty how long the badge would need to be in RODI before being rendered free of all marine pathogens.

 

[underthereef]

Is there any insight in regards to how long exactly tank/equipment needs to be dry before it can be used again? I’m getting nervous reading online that it needs 24-48 hours minimum but idk if that’s just a number people throw around. Finishing my TTM for velvet/ich. Did two extra transfers at 36 hours. Rinsed all equipment in freshwater/vinegar then let air dry and was always completely dry before reuse but in some cases because of scheduling not for a full 24 hours. I would say as little as 12 hours in one instant. But was exposed to sun or heat as well for drying.