Tank Transfer Method

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Humblefish

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Important - Tank Transfer Method is most effective when water temperature and salinity are kept within this range:
Temp: 24C-28C / 76F-82F
Salinity: 27ppt-35ppt / 1.020 SG - 1.026 SG


Tank Transfer Method (updated 2-9-2023)

What It Treats:
Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) only.

How To Treat: Tank transfer (TTM) is a non-chemical treatment option for clearing fish of Marine Ich. To properly execute TTM you need two tanks (or buckets), with dedicated equipment for each (not to be shared between the two.) I personally use two 10 gallon tanks to do TTM; each with its own heater, thermometer, air stone, airline tubing and PVC elbows for hiding places. This is how TTM is implemented:

Day 1 – Fish is placed in initial QT (transfer tank).
Day 4 – 72 hours later transfer the fish to a new tank. The time of day you do the transfer is unimportant, but never exceed 72 hours from the last transfer. The temperature and salinity of the new tank should match the old tank, so you can just catch & release the fish (no acclimation). Transfer as little water as possible with the fish.
Day 7 – Repeat.
Day 10 – Repeat.
Day 13Repeat and done (fish should now be ich free).

After transferring, immediately sanitize the “old tank” and all equipment using bleach or vinegar. Rinse well. Allow everything to air dry thoroughly before next use. (I blow a fan over tank + equipment.) The air drying is the sterilization process when using vinegar, or detoxification process when using bleach.

Simply put, this process works because you are literally outrunning the parasite’s known life cycle. If a fish is infected with ich, trophonts will drop off the fish at some point during TTM. The encysted stage (tomont) doesn’t have enough time to release theronts (i.e. free swimmers) before the fish exits the tank. Ammonia may or may not be a concern with TTM depending upon bioload. You always have the option of using an ammonia reducer, such as Amquel or Prime, in conjunction with TTM since there is no risk of negative interaction because no medications are in the water.

Once concern about TTM is netting the fish every 3 days. This can be somewhat alleviated by using a plastic colander in lieu of a net to catch the fish (square ones work better than round ones):
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Pros: Chemical free solution to Marine Ich, highly effective when performed properly.

Cons/Side Effects: Cost (when using all new saltwater), time/effort expended, probably somewhat stressful on the fish being caught every 3 days. This version of TTM does not treat other diseases such as Marine Velvet Disease, Brooklynella, Flukes, etc.

TTM FAQ:
  1. Always observe these "rules" whenever performing TTM:
    A) Transfers need to occur every 72 hours OR less, NOT more
    B) The total number of days to pass should be 12 OR more, NOT less
    C) A minimum of four transfers is required, with more required if doing transfers more frequent than every 72 hours

  2. There are two other versions of TTM:
    A) Velvet TTM
    B) Hybrid TTM

  3. Can chemicals/medications be used with TTM?
    Yes! Hybrid TTM utilizes H2O2 to eliminate velvet and other parasites. You can also deworm with praziquantel or fenbendazole while running a fish thru TTM. (Space the two prazi or fenben treatments 6 days apart.) Finally, antibiotics can be administered if a fish has a bacterial infection.
Video on TTM:

 
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BurtMacklin

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@Humblefish I recently did the TTM for velvet with the addition of Prazi Pro and lost two Banggai Cardinals to what I suspect was a bacterial infection. If I do this again with the addition of Metronidazole would you suggest adding it every 48 hours (day 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 11)? Would you dose directly into the water or combine with Focus and soak their frozen mysis shrimp? Any other/better prophylactic antibiotic recommendations?
 

Humblefish

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@Humblefish I recently did the TTM for velvet with the addition of Prazi Pro and lost two Banggai Cardinals to what I suspect was a bacterial infection. If I do this again with the addition of Metronidazole would you suggest adding it every 48 hours (day 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 11)? Would you dose directly into the water or combine with Focus and soak their frozen mysis shrimp? Any other/better prophylactic antibiotic recommendations?
If you suspect a bacterial infection, I would dose Kanaplex + Furan-2 (at the same time) and also Metroplex if you like. This combination covers a much wider range of bacterial diseases than just dosing metro alone.
 
For the initial tank in the TTM ich method, can you use old water from infected DT? Only for the initial tank, then use new saltwater for the additional transfers?
Also, how many fish can safely go in a 10g? I have a small sailfin, white tail, two clowns, and Midas blenny. Was thinking maybe doing 20g? My DT broke out in ich despite doing QT from the beginning :( I think my copper may not have been high enough when I did the Midas Blenny.
 

Humblefish

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For the initial tank in the TTM ich method, can you use old water from infected DT?
If you do this, I would perform an extra transfer for good measure.

Also, how many fish can safely go in a 10g? I have a small sailfin, white tail, two clowns, and Midas blenny. Was thinking maybe doing 20g?
How big are the tangs exactly? There should be less aggression between them in a 20g, and you have to remember that tangs tend to poop a lot (ammonia).
 
If you do this, I would perform an extra transfer for good measure.


How big are the tangs exactly? There should be less aggression between them in a 20g, and you have to remember that tangs tend to poop a lot (ammonia).
Okay sounds good. I was going to do a couple extra transfers anyway since I still need to figure out where to put them for the last month or two of the fallow period. Lol. I went with 20g high tanks to be safe. The tangs are about 4 inches.
 
On another note, is it normal for ich to be hard to see in certain lighting or certain angles? It seems to only be noticeable from a strong angle and more under blue lights. Or is it possible this is sand powder?
I assumed ich because I first only saw it on my blenny for a while, but then saw it on the white tail also, and then the sailfin last. But it drove me crazy because it’s only noticeable sometimes and not super clear. I actually had a thread about the blenny way back I think. Lol
 

Humblefish

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On another note, is it normal for ich to be hard to see in certain lighting or certain angles? It seems to only be noticeable from a strong angle and more under blue lights. Or is it possible this is sand powder?
This sounds more like velvet: Marine Velvet Disease

Sometimes velvet can only be seen by looking at the fish from an angle, not directly from the side.
 
This sounds more like velvet: Marine Velvet Disease

Sometimes velvet can only be seen by looking at the fish from an angle, not directly from the side.
Ooooh that’s Interesting, is it possible for my fish to have been living for months with some velvet in the tank? To me it looked more like small spots like what I would think for ich but it has been weird how it’s so hard to see in certain lighting/angles.
 

Humblefish

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Ooooh that’s Interesting, is it possible for my fish to have been living for months with some velvet in the tank?
Some fish can develop immunity/resistance to velvet, but that doesn't usually happen for the majority of fish. However, if you are running a UV or some other disease management tool in your DT, that makes living with velvet more possible.
 
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Got some pics and video after I finally caught the Blenny last. Lol. Tried to gently rub off and didn’t seem to come off. But also took a pic of the rock in my DT in the aftermath to show you how the rock powder looks. Very similar.
 

Humblefish

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Got some pics and video after I finally caught the Blenny last. Lol. Tried to gently rub off and didn’t seem to come off. But also took a pic of the rock in my DT in the aftermath to show you how the rock powder looks. Very similar.
Have you freshwater dipped this fish to check for flukes?

 
Have you freshwater dipped this fish to check for flukes?

No, I haven’t. I didn’t think of flukes since I dose prazi and metro in QT but. I’m a little freaked out of FW dips, I’ve only done one on a sick copperband and it died shortly after.

however, I was planning on redosing prazi and metro during TTM just in case. You think I should do Velvet TTM to be safe?
 

huff747

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Long time no talk. All was cruising along, no new fish since 2019, corals had been good then less good, then got things back on the upswing for the corals so thought I would add some more corals. Was dumb, didn't keep them in a separate tank and now I've got ich. Thinking I'll do TTM and I have 20 longs on hand. Most worried about ammonia with some of the bigger fish so I guess I should dose Prime? Only add Prime if I see ammonia? I'm not really worried about worms so wasn't thinking I would do Prazi. How many fish do you think I can do at a time in a 20L? I have 13 fish in the display. 5 Tangs, 4 damsels, 2 wrasses, 2 angels. 2 of the tangs seem to be most affected so thought I'd pull them first. Some fish show no signs. Thinking with 20L I may have to do them in batches and not start the fallow til I get them all out. And probably will pick up a rubbermaid stock tank for them to go into after TTM during the fallow period. Seem like a reasonable plan?
 

Humblefish

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Thinking I'll do TTM and I have 20 longs on hand. Most worried about ammonia with some of the bigger fish so I guess I should dose Prime? Only add Prime if I see ammonia? I'm not really worried about worms so wasn't thinking I would do Prazi. How many fish do you think I can do at a time in a 20L? I have 13 fish in the display. 5 Tangs, 4 damsels, 2 wrasses, 2 angels. 2 of the tangs seem to be most affected so thought I'd pull them first. Some fish show no signs. Thinking with 20L I may have to do them in batches and not start the fallow til I get them all out. And probably will pick up a rubbermaid stock tank for them to go into after TTM during the fallow period. Seem like a reasonable plan?
How big are the tangs and angels? Can you list them out?

Those are the ones I'd be most concerned about, aggression-wise and heavy poopers (ammonia) in just a 20 gal.
 

huff747

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Tangs - Powder Blue, Hippo (biggest fish in the tank), Kole, Scopas, Purple.
Angels - Not big, a pair of Potters

FWIW the Powder Blue (obviously) and the Hippo are pretty much the only fish I see it on so I was going to start with them, or at least the powder blue because of their reputation
 
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